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I have one of the Noco jump boxes. It jumps my F-250 with a 6.7 diesel no problem. I have probably used it more on stranded motorists than I have on my own cars. I am considering getting another one just to have in my other car.
I didn't do a 512, but I did do a 493 is my Road Runner, not an A12, but a well done clone. I kept the HP manifolds, and painted the aluminum heads. Externally, the motor looked stock, but it made 600hp!!! This a waaaaay more power than it needed on the street!
Here is a pick of my grill. It is definitely made from two grills. You can see 3 bolts from each side where the outer sections of one grill were added to the inner section of another. The radius of the light cutouts does not match the head lights, but would match the inner lights on a car...
Looks like a pretty dramatic price increase has occurred. I have had mine for about 5 years. I think I got 4 of them, plus freight for $750. I have used them A LOT, I feel much safer under the car with these than I do with jack stands. That made the expense worth it for me.
I use these to get my car up. Two settings for height. For most work, the lower setting provides plenty of room to work under the car. At the higher setting, there is enough room to drop the transmission and roll it out on the transmission jack. Even at the higher setting the car is rock...
This is the dyno sheet from my 493 stroker. Ran stock type 6bbl intake, eddy aluminum heads (don't recall which ones). Relatively mild hyd roller cam. 10:1 compression and lived nicely on pump gas. This was in my 69 RR. Never tracked it but it would roast tires at will with a 3,000rpm stall...
Every time I put an engine back together, I have parts left over (???). So of the 539 parts, how many are ESSENTIAL to the engine running? and how many are superfluous parts?
I think it's cool....if it's relatively rust free. If I bought it, I would clean up the interior with new carpet, seats, headliner, dash, and door cards, clean and paint the engine bay, new brakes, new suspension. Leave the exterior just like it is. Kind of like Roadkill's General Mayhem!
2 hours...until you get to the bolt that you can only turn 1/32 of a rotation at a time without repositioning the wrench and it takes you 1.5 hours to remove. Then you will snap another bolt and it will take 6 hours to get that out. Add in 4 trips to the auto parts store to get some obscure...
I was using clear tubing, I was also working alone, on the driver side, I could step on the pedal and watch the fluid in the line. Fluid did xome out clear with no bubbles, just very little and with a lot of effort.
Line lock has 1 line in, and 1 out to each front wheel.
From looking at the master cylinder in the car, it looks like it may be the same as would be in a mid 90's Dodge Dakota. The reason I say that is the top of the cylinder is taller in the back than in the front. From looking at pics, the only ones I could find that match this are from the...
I bench bled the master cylinder this morning. I was able to get the air out by bleeding the the brake pedal. However, VERY little fluid would push out of the rear brakes, also when using the vacuum pump it still pulled mostly air. The pedal is firmer, but I think there is still something...
There are 2 blenders, in need to take the wheel off to get to the other one. I will also check the lime from the front od the car. Dinner time, so back at this tomorrow.