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thanks

want to purchase a tool like this - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66779 for adjusting and would like to know what size the allen in the adjuster and size of lock nut on Harland Sharp rockers https://www.manciniracing.com/brb16ratwits.html . car is in storage or i would go and look...

my vacuum advance is connected to manifold vacuum not ported. so at idle with 14" of vacuum it pulls in 10 degrees. when at WOT or partial the 14" is not produced so the 10 degrees drops out until the system stabilizes.

i would have any head measured for volume. i also use stealth heads and they were different than advertised.

10 degrees at 14" of vacuum. 16 degrees initial. with engine running 26 degrees at idle. 18 degrees mechanical at 3200 rpm. all in 44 degrees total at cruise.

my build sound the same as yours but 4 speed and no power brakes. i went with 1.6 rocker ratio. also running a 6 bbl. pulling around 14" of vacuum. the big deal for me was getting a proper distributor curve setup. i have it setup to run manifold vacuum instead of ported vacuum. that alone...

when running, if fuel is seen dripping from venturi, the fuel level is way to high in float bowl. whether the needle is stuck or dirt stuck in it or float is bad or stuck, that could cause this. after engine sits and fuel evaporates then it would restart. usually when you go all in on a 6...

all fixed?

i know this is a commercial to sell their product, but still the process is a good reference to getting car setup with a good ignition curve. Many cooling issues like this can be cured by getting your tune up right, it's way cheaper and it permanently solves the issues rather than spending a...

all the things i am suggesting is done parked. only when you know that it is limited to around 34 degrees total, then go for a ride under load. no load tests in park are not a problem.

if you have a dial back timing light it should be a piece of cake. get it warmed up and check your timing at idle. then using the idle speed screw, go up in 500 rpm increments and write down what you get until it stops advancing. with today's fuel, i would try and make it start advancing at...

maybe not enough spring in the distributor to pull weights back in. also, i still would increase initial timing. try it in the garage. you can boost it up and give the throttle a couple of cracks and see how it behaves. if it likes the added timing then check the total to make sure it is not...

i would still like to see your initial timing at 16 degrees at least. no more than 34 total. after that i would turn all 4 idle screws to 3/4 of a turn on outboard carbs and readjust center carb for idle. also, can you confirm that the float levels have been checked? i have an A/F meter and...

any updates?

on its way. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctf-df070800

the center force dual seems to come up a lot on searches. that may be the direction i go.

what recommendations do you guys have for a clutch and pressure plate? i think my new engine has gone beyond my current setup. 69 roadrunner with 500 inch stroker

i good order of business for now is take care of all the mechanical issues with carb, setup ignition curve, then adjust carbs for idle mixture. this is assuming the that all 3 carbs have the float level verified.

after getting your carb issues addressed, i would still recommend more initial timing.

i think you are referring to the idle solenoid that deactivates on shut down to completely close throttle plates to help with stopping dieseling. used mostly for stock appearing setups. as far as i know it does not ease the throttle back to idle. it is used instead of the idle speed screw.