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The original '69 carbs from my car had the idle screws sealed with lead plugs, so non-adjustable. Someone prior to my ownership had mangled the carbs trying to drill out the lead plugs. I have been using a set of '68 carbs on the car for over 40 years. They had adjustable idle mixture screws...
Been fixing those for years with "wicking" Loctite 290. Doesn't look as ugly as epoxy. As to replacing the bowl, not always possible with current supply chain issues. I just had two leak on a Holley 4160 marine carburetor. Can't get on of the bowls from Holley, but they will gladly sell you a...
I'll add to the plunger spring confusion / question.
The plunger on the left is from a '69 Hemi AFB. It is probably an original since it has been in a box with the dis-assembled carb since 1976. The center plunger was in the box as well, but is unused, probably an actual Carter piece. The...
The first photo seems to show the pump link installed in the hole in the lever furthest from the fulcrum, although the photo is not the best. On a '69, that link should be in the center hole of the lever. That would give you more pump stroke per throttle movement, which seems to be your problem...
As mentioned, have you checked the pump outlet check valve? was it replaced and re-seated during the rebuild? I have taken more than a few of these carbs apart and found the outlet check has been removed or omitted un-intentionally.
Back in the day, I always had a Carter electric pump installed adjacent to the tank, over the rear end. The purpose was to guarantee fuel supply at drag strip outings or the "not so occasional" street encounter. Pump was only switched on when needed. However, the one thing I included with this...
You didn't mention this, but another thing to consider, are your carbs balanced correctly as per the service manual? You mention a '69 service manual. The procedure for carb balancing in that manual works very well (idling on both carbs, not solely the rear). It is particularly important for off...
Wow, this is a timely post. I was just about to start a thread about this same topic and my surprising success.
Preamble: I am working through reviving a barn find ski boat (story in itself). I always was leary about what I would find with the carb and prepared to purchase a new one, worst case...
When I still worked in a refinery and had access to the lab, we tested this stuff (with proper lab equipment and in a Waukesha knock engine). While it wasn't exactly "snake oil", the advertising was rather dubious at best as to the claimed results. Analysis found the product to be premium...
TEL served two purposes, increasing octane and protection against valve seat recession in earlier engines that did not have hardened exhaust valves and seats. If your car runs on 91 octane without detonation you don't need TEL. The valve seat recession problems are more prevalent in engines that...
Depends what you are doing. I used to fly a lot of cross country trips in my Piper Cherokee. The optimum efficiency altitude (by the flight manual) was 7000'. So we always tried for that density altitude (a whole other topic) for maximum efficiency on long trips
I have been using one of those K&N's for years. Wash and re-oil it every time I do a tune up (which can be years, lol). I have one of the old reproduction paper ones that I will use while I am waiting for the K&N to dry if I need to take the R/T for a ride. I have not been able to find a...