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Your first post states you made new insulators for the ameter. That would be your first place to look. Verify that it is reassembled correctly. I suspect an extra insulator washer found it's way onto an ameter lug.

I have an older analog 6AL in my Charger. It has been there 20+ years trouble free. Now, I use the original Prestolite points to trigger it. The points last forever since they are not carrying much current. I also connect it so that should the MSD croak, it is a simple connector swap to be back...

Both. I run MSD 6AL's but trigger them with points. In the event that the MSD fails, although mine never have, move a couple of connectors and you are driving home on the points instead of the hook. The points last longer as well because they are not carrying the full current of the coil...

I fitted a stock cover over an early electronic voltage regulator (Canadian Tire) 40 years ago. Still running fine.

The problem you describe is actually MSD's anti-theft method, published in the instructions. You connect the unused trigger circuit, be it points or magnetic, to a switch to ground. When the circuit is grounded via the switch, the MSD box will not provide spark.

I have an analog 6AL on my Charger. No issues in nearly 30 years. I also have a digital 6AL on my Ford F150, been there for about 3 years with no issues. About to install a 6M-2L (analog marine version) on my ski boat. On both the Charger and the boat, I use the original points as the trigger...

If you are talking Hemi car and you still have the direct drive starter, the wire terminals that connect to the starter solenoid are different. Not sure if lengths are different as well.

Since my Charger is a radio delete car, mine is mounted behind the radio block off plate. I built a bracket that bolts it to the radio mounts. All covered up by the block off plate. Never know it is there and stays clean and dry.

I would stick with the 6AL. More spark energy that the Street Fire. That being said, the newer digital versions of the 6AL get some bad press though. I have a digital 6AL in my Ford F150, been there about 10000 miles without an issue. I have the older analog 6AL in my Charger, it has been there...

More from the memory bank. I believe you are correct, the truck starter requires a slight grinder massage on the nose to fit.

The solenoid is on the bottom. I can get you an in service photo of mine although it a'69. Of note, I seem to remember from eons ago, that the starter from certain Dodge 413 cu in truck engines are interchangeable. That may give a more reasonable priced path and may very well be what that Ebay...

As Fran Blacker indicates, it appears your have the wrong starter. If you have a stock bell housing and 172 tooth flywheel, you need a "direct drive" starter. I believe the harness is different between an auto or 4spd car. The direct drive starters are getting scarce and pricey should you need...

I have an MSD 6AL mounted in place of the am radio in my Charger. Since my car was ordered sans radio, it is nicely hidden behind the radio delete plate. Also easily removeable through that opening if necessary.

Absolutely correct Bob, however the quote applications address reliability, not performance gains. Once a spark cycle is initiated (power stroke) it will only arc between one pair of electrodes, not multiples for a given cycle. So, the extra electrodes can actually shroud the start of the flame...

Ok, from a -40 to 0 to +40 Rally dash ammeter, 0.2 ohms across the copper bus. As noted in previous comments, the resistance at the terminals can vary greatly depending on the quality of the connection of the terminal studs to the bus. The .3 ohms you get after you tightened the terminal is...

I have always removed the washers as per the FSM.

I just completed the "5000 mile maintenance" on my Charger. Fairly involved, valve lash, tune up, carb balancing etc. Checked my log book and the last time I did it was 21 years ago!

I wouldn't change the OEM plugs on the harness. Why not cut / file off the offending tabs on the bulb bayonets? Or can you just bend the tab back flush with the bayonet?

I second the Prestolite dual point. I use mine to trigger an MSD 6AL. Points last even longer as they do not carry any current. Best of both worlds and appears stock as the MSD box is hidden. Mine will pull 7000 rpm. Should the MSD fail, you move a couple of wires and drive home on the stock...

kryslerkid's answer is basically from the FSM. The FSM method works very well.