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Take no chances...changing the oil after the 1st hour, I'd say. I do that with any new engine. Probably overkill

It appears to be porosity in the casting. As long as the gasket encompasses it completely...I wouldn't do a thing. Welding will likely open a can of worms if you get too close to the bore. I would have expected to see a witness of exhaust escaping in that area, if this was a "real...

What car body are you going into? My cars are as they were, when they were born. Changeovers are a lot of extra work. I like the 4 speeds...although when I drive it to work, I need a place to stage my coffee cup during shifting. A small inconvenience, but as long as my left foot holds up I'll...

....and nothing silly like: the tire binding up in the wheel well?? My 66 coronet just cleared 235R15 tires

Process of elimination , if it's not the E brake: Can't be master cylinder, or both wheels would be stuck. Can it be a rim that doesn't clear the caliper? I've heard of the flexible rubber hose separating on the inside and impeding the back flow.... Check your rim clearance......I think I've...

I think that the rod getting caught in the timing chain a million to one shot. More than likely, it will make it's way to the bottom of the pan and stay there. Put it on your short list of things to do when you can get at the oil pan. Maybe when you change your oil, you can stick a round magnet...

Yea A flexable magnet. You might find it through the oil drain plug. If you get it without dropping the oil pan...buy a lottery ticket Good luck to you

Agreed Could be a worn down fuel pump rod, perhaps a weak fuel pump, or a dented fuel line causing a restriction. The fuel pressure gauge will, at least, prove/disprove this and is minimally invasive. Is your gas cap vented? Just a thought

I can't imagine that it was done on purpose. I'd go back and voice a complaint. A less observant "home mechanic" might have swapped heads and ruined everything.

It's an "Inland"