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I think its the horn relay.

You can jump the terminals to bypass the rheostat and the dash lights should be on. There should be 12 volts at the black wire with the headlights on. If so jump to the tan from the black and the lights should be on.

Yes it could be. You most likely have power there for the headlights. Did you test the fuses?????

Test all your fuses. Do not look at them and say they look ok.

I think there has been others that had to grind the head for the distributor to fit.

Take it apart and look. Most likely the red wire is grounding out.

Shorted internally.

There is a lot of guys running a collar on the B/RB-Hemi that claim it works. Might be more critical with roller cams. Myself i have never used one.

Lots have the timing jumping around and cure it with a lock color on the distributor shaft. It keeps the drive gear seated in the cam gear.

Just power up the normal fuse link normally off the starter relay battery terminal

Thats why I cringe when people post an electrical problem and state all the fuses are good. Then when asked did you test them? You get the Deer in the headlight look and they say I know they are good because I looked at them. Then they get testy when you tell them how they should test them...

I just have never seen one without a pin. Makes no sense that it is just pressed on without some way to index it correctly. Unless I am missing something?

I would contact the guy thats sells them and ask about the pinning of the reluctor to the shaft. I would not trust it and it makes me wonder about how correct the phasing is?

I saw that to but figured he would of questioned that.

Makes no sense. The reluctor has to be phased to the rotor.

Is the clip in place on the center of the shaft?

Run a temporary jumper from the coil to the battery and see if it fires.

That crossed my mind, but I was unsure so I said nothing.

Yes they would of had Mopar and a pentastar logo as I remember.

Those do not look like OEM wires and cap.