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Just change the adjustment and see if the shift points change. I rarely have seen going by the book have the right shift points. Every job I have done I just ball park it in the shop and tweak it on the road as needed.
Depending on the coil. Most use a ballast so you should have 7 to 9 volts roughly. You could run a quick temporary jumper from the battery to the coil. You will know right away if it changes any thing.
Was the cam ever degreed? Like I said earlier find true top dead center. I would invest in a stop and find the true top dead center. If the marks are off find out why. Cover tab or balancer. If the marks are correct I would suspect a mis-degree-d cam.
Hinge needs to come off. There are places that rebuild them. But you might locate the parts and it might be possible to do it yourself. Not sure if you could do it on the car.
Most of the time you would winch off the same points you use to tie the car down. With our wrecker and the old style sling the J-Hooks always latched on to the lower control arms. I see no problem using a control arm for an easy pulling rolling car. As others have said there are other points you...
You most likely have a sending unit that is not reading correctly. The sender has to operate in the 70-10 Ohm range. Meter match works really well and you can fully calibrate the gauge.
My 19 was from an old Paul Harvey broadcast. The guy was playing Russian roulette with a revolver. Before each click he said he was greater than some known hero. On the 4th try all Paul Harvey said he was 19.