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I had the same problem. I disconnected the hose at the fuel pump and it drained pretty much completely

I also dumped the oil and cut open the oil filter to check for metal. I didn't see anything much. By the way, those who say Fram filters are no good, haven't used an HP1

Not being able to get a good look at the lobe on the cam, I employed this non-scientific method to see if it was worn. I bought a piece of wooden dowel approximately the same diameter as the pushrod and bumped the starter over while marking the high and low points. It measured roughly 1/4 inch...

My buddy says the same thing, just permanently wire the electric pump and forget the mechanical pump. This is the pump assembly I have.

I have tried a borescope, but the picture is not clear enough.

Does anyone know if you can see the fuel pump lobe if you remove the distributor and oil pump drive?

Did you check the cam? Was only the pushrod worn?

The cam is an old stock Wolverine Blue Racer, same as a Melling or an Edelbrock Performer.

The problem is that I don't recall any wear on the pushrod when I changed the cam about two years ago.

The odometer has 74,000 miles on it, which appears to be correct given the condition of the car and engine. The oil has zinc with an additive as well.

My question is, what if anything can I do to avoid the same problem? Also are the pushrods the same on both ends? I noticed the new Mancini pushrod has two tiny dots on one end.

I found the issue that caused me to lose fuel pressure on the way to Carlisle. The fuel pump pushrod, which was the original one from the 361, had worn down about 1/4 inch. The fuel pump on the car was a stock style Carter, not a HP one. I bought a new fuel pump pushrod from Mancini's at...

Dumb question, is the choke closed when you are trying? I believe there is a linkage that keeps the secondary from opening if the choke is not open. If that is the case, try holding the choke open and see if the secondary will open.

I bent my pickup so the end just touches the bottom of the tank. It is on a bit of an angle anyway. I think the float is fine.

The factory air filters are 13 inch diameter, while most of the aftermarket ones are 14 inch diameter. There are two Mopar filter heights as well. The one shown is about 3/4 inch taller than the standard 68-69 filter. I believe it was stock on the later model 440 air cleaners.

I just changed out the factory closed base plate for an open drop base and a taller filter. My top is the 67 dual snorkel, but it is the same basic cover. I just checked hood clearance and should have enough room to be able to use the stock 68-69 unsilenced base. My project for this weekend.

I finally got the seats back in and took the car for a short drive to the gas station. It turns out my gas can holds 6 US gallons (22 litres), so I had actually put in 12 gallons so far. The gauge was reading just over half. It took about 7 gallons (28 litres)to fill it and the gauge read...

One other tip, measure your original hoses. The replacements were all too long and especially with the vent hose, because it butts up against the frame rail, it can make it hard to get the tank centered correctly. I had to cut mine in place, which was no fun.

My new tank came with a soldered in vent tube, so I didn't have to deal with the grommet. When I put the tank in I loosened the tail pipe hangers and was able to push them out of the way enough to install the tank. I would probably finish the tank install before doing the exhaust.

I double checked the reading with 5 gallons in it and it was the same. I added another 5 gallons which brought it up to half full. The gauge is a bit notchy. When I had it apart I bent the brass contact arm a bit so it was making better contact with the windings. I might have overdone it...