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I always found those Mr. Gasket springs far too light. I used to use two of the stock light springs. That and welding the slot to limit centrifugal advance and increase initial. I got my old distributor back after I sold the car, and it is going into my new engine build.

Mine was missing in action when I bought the car. I used the hole to mount a priming switch for my fuel pump. When I was contorting my hand to install the switch I ran across the loose wire and bulb holder. It was a plastic socket that seems as if it just snaps into the housing under the...

Watching Dave. I bought my old electronic ignition back when I sold the cuda. I am planning on installing it this winter. It has a much better advance curve it it.

I understand that the white wires with red connectors indicate the high voltage electroluminescent feeds. If your car is a 67 the extra connector may be for the console, which did not have electroluminescent lighting in 67.

Okay I had a go at it. This is what was left of the original plug. I stripped the cover and exposed the centre core. The wire inside is tiny. I folded back the outer wire sheathing so it would contact the outside shell. I ran the tiny centre wire through the end of the pin and soldered it...

I called the local stereo supply place and he sold this package of plugs, 5 for 5 bucks. He said it would be simple to replace. We shall see.

Anybody ever tried one of these? It is referred to as solderless.

I thought the cable was part of the antenna?

They installed my radio/ CD player today, but when they went to plug in the antenna, the plug end had separated from the cable. The antenna is original and in great shape. Has anyone successfully replaced the plug on the end of the cable?

Rock Auto specials. Not red but nice ends. The small wire on the positive gets spliced into the original.

Ended up switching back to the ballast resistor. I drove to a car cruise with it hooked up to the Fld side of the voltage regulator, and the ammeter fluttered constantly. On the same drive back home hooked up to the ballast resistor the ammeter was rock steady. Why I have no idea.

Switched it over. The Fld side was clearly marked.

To be clear that would be the left lug on the voltage regulator, correct? That would be better as it would be screwed on.

I am electrically challenged. A test light is more my speed.

I just wired up my electric choke on a 66 Charger. It was very hard to tell the wire colour, but the brown wire was on the drivers side of the ballast resistor, so I plugged in to the other side. I also couldn't tell which wires were leading to the voltage regulator since they were all wrapped...

I replaced all the factory looms, and I used them all. With the A/C it is very tight to get the drivers side wires through. I am happy that everything has lots of clearance on the exhaust manifolds now.

Passenger side.

Got it done yesterday. Started with the passenger side and I ended up having to redo it since the number 1 and 3 wires were too short. Here is how it ended up. Drivers side first.

Thanks I have standard manifolds but I tend to agree on 6 and 8. Number 6 has a woven sleeve on it now. I have a DEI sleeve I can use on the new wire. I'm thinking number 7 might need the other 135 boot.

When I was getting the engine running again, I noticed that two of the plug wires were damaged, one burnt and one chewed by critters. This is in a 1966 Charger with a 361, but I assume a 383 would be the same. I ordered a new set from Blue Streak, which are supposed to be stock replacement...