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Speedometer gear. Goes in the transmission tail housing and meshes with the output shaft to determine your road speed. Count the number of teeth on it to determine the it's ratio that would match it to a rear gear - 41= 4.10 gear, 39 = 3.91 and so on.

My Coronet suffers from ridiculous amounts of wind/road noise. I've been driving "old" cars for decades so I'm somewhat used to it but the Coronet is literally the worst I've ever experienced. It's even louder than my old '76 D100 was at 70 mph with the windows fully open and that thing was the...

That probably had less to do with the engineering aspect of it and more to do with Chrysler's well-known cheapness. Case in point - most would agree that ALL assembly line platforms from a 170 Slant 6 A body to a Hemi 4 speed B body would have clearly benefited from frame connectors installed at...

Like I said, one has to clean the surfaces to be painted really well before painting. It's just like body work - the better the prep job, the better the end result. Same old story - someone fails to go to the necessary lengths to prep the surface and then the paint comes off so they blame the...

In general, I try to avoid using stuff just because it’s cheap. Either way, using Rustoleum over Glyptal is not an apples-to-apples comparison. Maybe R.O. has some similar kind of product I'm not aware of so pardon my ignorance if that's the case. And that's not to say Rustoleum doesn't work...

I use it. Good stuff.

Why?

Hmmm... not sure about any specific NHRA rule? This is not a race car. However, if you are racing the car, presumably you'd have a driveshaft loop if you break a U joint. And if you're at the level where you're exploding transmissions you're probably going to be doing things a little differently...

USCT frame connectors here. 3/8" tubing.

Might want to make sure that MSD box will play nice with the ECU in order to enable timing control. I could be wrong but there may be something to that idea. Go on the Holley forums and look around to confirm these parts will work together to do what you want.

I would say Hyperspark, no problems with mine. Even I managed to set up the Hyperspark distributor correctly and if that's the case, anyone can. AFAIK, the Dual Sync is for sequential systems that require a cam sensor input. Also, if I'm not mistaken, to use them for TB EFI they require a...

Again, no clearance required with either the stock or Stealth heads which are an aluminum copy of a stock head. As you stated from first-hand experience, it's well known that the more brick-like aluminum heads such as Edelbrock, Trick Flow, Indy, etc. usually require some grinding to make an...

I use the Hyperspark distributor on the 383 in my Coronet with stock heads. It fits, didn't have to grind anything. Stealth heads are a copy of the stock heads so that shouldn't be an issue. I am using stock valve covers but I did have three different sets of aftermarket ones on there previously...

Rear port closest to the firewall. Sometimes it's hard to tell but in general the front brake reservoir is larger.

Was a Jeep/Doge/Chrysler/Hyundai dealership tech for about 5 years. If it wasn't for "office politics" I'd probably still be doing it, I loved it. My service manager had it in for me and fired me twice. I started as a helper and worked for the foreman. Any job I did he flagged, I was hourly...

Looks like a seat adjuster return spring.

here's what I did - Autometer Traditional Chrome street tach, 2 5/8" diameter. IMO, anything larger than 3 3/8" would be obtrusive. My setup may not be relevant since it's a 4 speed so slightly different column collars but you get the idea. No shift light but if I were to have one, it would be...

1) Look like interior screws for sure, like the under column bezel or some sort of dash or seat fasteners. 2) master cylinder studs? 3) look like line clips, maybe transmission cooler? 4) throttle or transmission linkage rod clips 5) under dash steering column - missing two nuts? 6) it's...

I'm actually dealing with finding the right paint myself for a steering column swap (same paint as the dash). I prefer to have the factory correct finish. Reflective glare in your face while driving is not something you'd want to contend with. You tend not to notice stuff when it's 'correct' but...