Search results for query: *

So this carb DID run at one time, or is it new? It ran rich before? Maybe floats set while stopped, but ever when running? Do you have a fuel-pressure regulator? How many psi do you have? Holleys and Demons like 4-6, Eddys like 7-8. A stock replacement fuel-pump can put out 12psi.

Hi Halle! Wanting to build a 400-B-Block based stroker for mine. Mega-squirt is part of the plan. I also want sequential, not batch-fire, so a camshaft position sensor will be needed. I also want to eliminate the dizzy, and do a coil-per-plug set-up. So I would need to blank-off the dizzy...

I had a 5.2 oil pan that rusted-out, and seeped. Hit it with 80-grit after letting it drain for a few days. Cleaned the surface with de-greaser. Then mixed up some JB Weld, and put it on like bondo! 2 years, no issues.

No advice on voltage regulators. But unless the alternator is squealing, or smells like burned electrics, or bearings are bad, the problem is usually the "rectifier". All modern alternators are actually 3-phase, AC generators. This is done because it is easier, and lighter to make an AC...

Starting to see a theme here. The Mopar fuel-pump push-rods have been fine forever, till.............and this is just a guess here, the removal of zinc from motor oil that has also killed the flat tappets?

There are many overheating threads, and solutions in this forum. The answers are all there. But first make sure your house is in order. Are you running a fan shroud? All bets are off till you have a properly fitted fan shroud. Do you have a water pump, or housing that is non-mopar? I.E...

I'd like to see what they look like installed!

Glad you found it! DC is a different animal than AC. Rule of thumb in dealing with DC. If it don't work, check power, if it works weird, check ground.

Lights tend to pulsate when relying on the alternator, rather than the battery. Even though its all hooked together, the battery has a "smoothing" effect on voltage variations. Could be battery, connections, or grounds at this point. You just have to rule things out. Bad grounds do weird...

Nice quote Girard! I think the only performance difference could be found on a dyno. On the street, nothing. Believe it or not, during testing, some consumers found that low-pitched growl of an open-element air-cleaner "offensive" during acceleration. Air cleaners to this day are still...

Oh those things? I have a box full of them. I think I used a few of them to pop-rivet my downspout together. I was out of the regular ones. Pm me with a pic to make sure they match.

I've seen some real crap out there in stainless. I would not use it for anything internally, and few things externally, unless you know the source of it.

An open, or 4-hole MAY help. But is depends on the intake, single or dual plane. And what you are going for. Top-end, or torque?

If I were to be building that car for my daughter, I would really consider just putting in a trouble-free, low mile magnum motor, and overdrive trans. That is if there is help out there with the electronics. The motors are plenty powerful enough for her needs, and low maintenance. It would...

Very interesting, and thanks! Maybe they should bring that little emblem back?

I know for a fact that Aussie fuel is different. My Harley is tuned for U.S. 92 octane. When I took my bike there and used their 94 octane, the motor rattled like a garbage-disposal full of drywall screws! I had to use generous amounts of octane-boost to to keep the detonation away. Reason...

Just buy one of these. http://www.amazon.com/Kintrex-IRT0421-Non-Contact-Thermometer-Targeting/dp/B0017L9Q9C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367381624&sr=8-1&keywords=kintex Pays for itself in troubleshooting.

It is hard to just BUY a good stat anymore! We grew-up using Standt. Well, it ain't the Standt your dad drove! I rebuild 2.7 Chryslers on the side, and the factory stat is NOTICEABLY heavier than anything I can get from the parts stores. You just cant assume you are buying a good part...

Swedcharger, a cam for an F.I. motor has different needs than for a carb. You'll need a cam ground for FI.

I have my 74 RR right fender off now if you need a pic or a measurement.