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Yes only use 1.

A Demon is very similar to a Holley and gaskets/parts are interchangeable. It is kind of a copy just so you know. Holley also post tech tips on You Tube.

There are plenty of tutorials on You Tube from good people who will show you what to do and what you may need to replace. Basic work on a carb is not hard so it pays to learn yourself.

I think those Demon's have power valve blow out protection but that is not 100% effective. Also they can dry out from sitting around and rupture. Good point posted - replace the power valve.

Check the accelerator pump is operating correctly.

What about the Performer rather than the Performer RPM? The manifold is lower and they do run to 5500 and further if you port them.

The pushrod should be able to move in and out freely.

I tried them on a few carbs and they did not do much. One car developed a stumble off idle and a lean cough so I took it back off. They may improve throttle response on some engines but I don't see how they can make more power. If you can tune an accelerator pump save your money.

I have used those replaceable jet metering plates on a fair number of carbs and had no problems fouling the floats - but I only use those blue non-stick gaskets and they are fairly thick and may just hold the float bowl out enough. I have also had no problem with how the engines run with them...

The tin plate and gasket are there to provide support/sealing for the centre part of the metering jet plate were the carb body has a cast in recess for a secondary power valve. If the carb is completely flat they will not need the support plate and gasket. The main reason everything comes close...

Every car that has fuel injection uses O2 sensors in the system to calibrate the mixture. The engineers who design those systems can't all be wrong.

The reading of 14 on the gauge means 14 parts of oxygen to 1 part of fuel. Hence a gauge reading of 12 is richer than a reading of 14.7 - I do know what stoichiometric is. The readings you would need to get on your gauge at sea level are well publicised in the instructions that would come with a...

Assuming the A/F meter is correctly installed, calibrated and working correctly. Most that I have seen compensate for temperature change and some you can collect the data to view on a computer. I do agree they do jump around - a bit of "averaging" is required. That is the nature of tuning a...

Thanks for the update. I would be interested to hear what you find changes with the AFR when you change the restrictors if you could do another update. Every engine combination is different and getting the carb mixture correct can be tricky.

The quality of the pics is a bit poor but I think you will be OK. The first thing I did was use clear plastic tube and brought the vents up in to the trunk so I could see what was happening. I did some experiments and found that on my car at least the fuel could push up either vent tube right up...

It should work or at least help. If you want me to post a couple of pics of what I did to the vents I can. You do not need to modify the car or the tank it is only rubber tubes and grommets. I believe I modified the vents first which resolved 95% of the problems - it stopped puking liquid fuel...

Same as mine I have a 1968 GTX. No problem at all with with the cap under any conditions. It can get fairly hot here in summer and the modern fuels expand like crazy. It was a few years ago but I think the recommended cap was a 1973-75 B Body cap - but not super sure on that. It was about 50...

The standard 1968 cap is non-vented. However I saw an article in Mopar Action that said you can swap to the later style vented type. I did this it works fine, purchased a new one off EBAY. This might solve some of your problem. My car used to stink and even drop liquid fuel out of the chassis...

You have nigh on 500 cubic inches - the extra suck that kind of displacement and extra stroke will have is it will start to act on the mains circuit fairly early. The circuits of a carb don't go bang on then off and bang on with the next one. My words - they all sort of meld in and out as...

The name idle air bleeds gives it away. The idle air bleeds only really affect 2 circuits in the carburettor - predominantly idle and to a certain extent transition. If they really influenced the cruise mixture they would be called cruise air bleeds. To alter cruise mixture alter the sizing of...