Search results for query: *

Are they magnesium or aluminium??

I agree with post #6 I had a set I bought 30 or 40 years ago and the inner hole was definitely offset and you flipped them around for different wheel lug spacing.

If you are not getting any vibration or other problems I wouldn't lose any sleep over the issue.

I believe yours is not an isolated case. Generally reviews of Coker tyres are not good. I went for the Diamondbacks as well.

The conical wheel nuts are used because they locate the wheel in a more "true" fashion. Also because of the tapered seat they are less likely to come undone. Aluminium road type wheels need to be around twice as thick as steel so that does make a problem on an older vehicle designed for steel rims.

Rule of thumb for a fastener is 1.5 times the diameter will cope with maximum torque. So 3/4" of thread in the nut should be fine. You would probably only torque them up to 65 ft/lbs

I went for the Diamondbacks. There are quite a few negative reviews on the other brands out there. A lot of out of round and balance issues. The Toyo Diamondbacks are on the car and it goes down the highway real smooth.

With the repro wheels it is best to use a "bulge nut" I believe they call them. The repro wheels do not have a certain bulge out where the wheel nut is so you have to watch you do not bottom the nut at the end of the thread at then hub end. I compared my repro Magnums on my GTX to the Mopar...

I think most rims would need 4 inches to fit the front. I would hold off on them.

I would not put clear on them after all the work you have done. The water gets under it eventually and it goes all spidery and oxidised. It does take a while however. My advice is leave them polished aluminium as you have them and periodically I use a product called Autosol which is a fine...