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It looks to me like the adjuster hex needs to go around 1 flat "lower" on the torsion bar.

You are right - nobody who has had 5 minutes of training and has 12 minutes to align a customers car is not going to give a **** about doing it right.

Has it got an oddball part in there somewhere? In theory the length of the rods from the inner tie rod end to the outer tie rod end should be the same at any given toe in setting. All 4 tie rod ends should have approximately the same amount of thread protruding from the adjuster turnbuckle.

If you are concerned you could tack weld the brackets. A couple of reasonable tacks would do the job and easy enough to grind away if you want the bracket off.

The post #2 is right the booster probably has a fault. Is the pedal pushrod adjustable? Some can be adjusted but it may be waste of time. There is an air valve at the back of the booster were the pushrod goes in that is leaking. It might settle down after a few applications but failing that you...

I have not really looked looked at it closely as both my cars have enough manifold vacuum to run a vacuum booster. If you have low manifold vacuum it would be worth looking at. Electric power steering seems to work on modern cars steering so why not on brakes. I believe they are being used on...

With the coupler in place you could use a small stone and a die grinder to relieve the shaft in the correct place.

By 1971 I think you got sliding/pin style callipers on a factory disc brake car. Have a look at the 1971 factory service manual.

No problem with the bearing retainer plates - that is stock. The different look is the rear axle bearing adjuster system. Check the rear axle end-play. Back off the emergency brake system and adjust the wheels. Then adjust the emergency brake up. Check the rear axle oil level. Try it on the road.

Normally as mentioned you would only use one valve. However give it a go it may work - or the back brakes could become to weak to work at all? I am not sure what you are going to find. Waiting for your update and feedback.

The 3/16 drop in wheel cylinder diameter should tone the back brakes down enough to eliminate any locking problems. Provided the rear brakes have correct spring placement, shoes etc. You may find you are able to set the valve back to the maximum pressure going to the rears. The smaller diameter...

Good call. It is nice to have the confidence knowing you can slam the brakes on and rely on those front discs to get the job done. Once you get the cylinders done set the adjustable valve to the mid point and go up or down from there. Basically you want to be at a point of no matter how hard...

Depending on how bad the rear brake locking is I would normally go down 1/8 to 3/16. I even went down 1/4 on a light car. Essentially you are making the back brakes weaker to the point they cannot over-power the traction of the tyres. Rear locking under braking in wet weather is going to try...

Over here I use a place that just sleeves them down to whatever size I want. That is by far the easiest. Pull apart the back brakes and dismantle the rear cylinders and measure the diameter of the pistons. From there I can recommend a size to try. Just note it is a guess based on your feedback.

Ok well it sounds like you have all the basics covered. The adjustable valve is not a "shut off" valve just a regulator of sorts. It appears your car is a candidate for smaller wheel cylinders.

You also need to be sure both braking systems are working correctly and the rear brakes and shoes are assembled correctly.

The state of the front/rear shock absorbers and suspension can also affect rear brake lock. There will always be some weight transfer to the front end - that is not avoidable. The car must stay "flat" and not do a big nose dive and transfer the majority of the weight to the front end taking the...

If you are at full reduction on the back brakes you need to get the wheel cylinders sleeved to a smaller size. If it is locking in the dry it will be bad news in the wet.

I am not sure if replacing the reaction pad with say a solid chunk of plastic would gain you anything substantial in the way of braking power - unless the reaction pad is damaged by say oil contamination. On a street car - an old boss told me the reaction pad is also there to allow a little bit...

I know what you mean regarding ratchet wrenches. I never had them in my toolbox and a friend I rebuilt an engine for gave me a set as a gift. Bloody love them now. Sometimes I get to fit mismatched masters on to boosters - the tool takes all the guesswork out of adjusting the pushrod...