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I think I remember having to file the side pins a little shorter once or twice in the past also.

When the doors open.

Check out post #4. Most likely the problem.

The reason it starts OK when hot is the required energy from the ignition system is a lot less to start a warm engine as opposed to dead cold engine. The starter motor for instance draws a lot more energy from the battery to spin over a cold engine - leaving less energy available from the...

Your video was good and you do seem to have enough fuel available. It is a matter sometimes of finding the right starting procedure. Check out the ignition side of things. You need to know this is working correctly. Checking timing and operation of the distributor. Also spark plugs. One...

If there is fuel in the float bowls no reason you could not pump two or three shots into the cold engine with the accelerator pump.

My GTX had a faulty earth cable at the connection of the cable to the battery terminal.

They do get quite hot. I don't like leaving the doors open for extended periods. If I do I pull the timer out of the connector or disconnect the battery.

Check or replace the gauges voltage regulator is also a possibility. That would probably also affect the temperature gauge. Loose connection on the feed side of the oil gauge as mentioned.

If it runs good and it doesn't worry you - maybe just leave it until something goes wrong with the current setup. Have a look at Progression Ignition.

It is wired correctly. An HEI ignition has the coil built in to the top of the cap and the only wiring required is 12 volt feed.

Yes I agree that does not sound right. Is the field grounded/alternator fault so the alternator pumps out full charge no matter what the regulator signals???? I am just guessing now.

I have a little LED voltage indicator tapped in to the radio feed wire. When I start the engine I get 14.4 - 14.5 This will drop to 13.7 - 13.9 as the battery tops up. With my electric fan on and the headlights my car does not charge at idle. The indicator shows about 11.5 If the battery is...

Where are you getting the 14.8 volts from? Inside the car or the battery? A half of a volt here and there is likely not going to cause a battery BBQ. EDIT: PROVIDED - the regulator is backing off the charge as the battery becomes fully charged. If not there will be a problem but my back yard...

That play does not look right in the video. The way you checked rotor phasing appears to be right.

Good choice to use matching OEM components.

They may have different operating voltages when they warm up. Most after market electronic ignitions do not require a ballast resistor. You didn't mention if yours requires a resistor. The ceramic block one without the steel bracket looks like the one mounted on my cars firewall which was...

I don't get too hung up on rotor phasing but I do like to check it during the bed in/tuning phase. On most engines it would qualify as a small tuning tweak. However if for some reason it was well out it would cause problems that would be had to find and it is worth checking so you know it is...

Yes you are quite right - there is some tolerance either way either to the right or left of the post. You cannot get it totally perfect just close enough that you do not have a misfire, a crossfire in the cap or waste spark energy jumping a super wide gap. You try and adjust to a point were the...

I thought I would chime in and answer this. I always check rotor phasing on a performance engine and it is a must if you use electronic timing control like the original poster. I only use electronic timing control now so I can easily alter the RPM point the ignition starts to advance and how...