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If the power is making it to the ballast resister in the run position it will be the resistor. If the power is not making it to the resistor it will be the ignition or a connection.

Interested to hear what difference the cam timing shift makes. I assume any manifold changes will come later?

From what you have found that manifold probably does need a higher stall converter. As you say cam then manifold and you may not need to do the converter. There is some blending you can do to a stock manifold that is fairly effective and is real easy to do if you go that way.

Recently I watched a video posted on Youtube by Richard Holdener. He is quite well known and I believe the info in the test would be accurate. It was also pretty interesting with were some modifications can cost you. He took a junk yard 460 Ford big block and put it on the dyno. It was a 1968...

I was wrong about the torque lowers the stall speed it does in fact raise it as others have correctly posted. What may be the case with your engine is you have shifted up the place were your engine makes enough torque to get the wheels spinning easily. Meaning your engine actually has less...

Now that you have modified the engine the goal posts have shifted. When the engine was original it may have burned the tyres with that converter as you say. The original camshaft, cylinder heads, intake manifold, compression ratio, carburettor response may have meant it could roast the tyres. I...

I assume the CH4B is the intake? If it is a single plane it will be a bit less responsive down low and may well need a looser converter.

It is hard to say sitting here but you could be right saying torque converter assuming the engine has some low down punch. I do not buy off the shelf converters from Hughes, B&M or any others. I have a company make a custom converter to the engine combo and with yours maybe go for 2500 stall? So...

How did it idle/run while it had the 2 barrel on it?

Have you checked the rear axle to make sure that is all working correctly?

What you describe seems far from common. I would be to scared to even move my car if it did that. If you have the knowledge fair enough - if you don''t get some help.

I would remove that transmission immediately. If it stays in two gears at once you could blow the back off the motor and lunch the trans and diff all in one go.

Do it carefully - if you cook the brake shoes you will not be very happy.

I have heard of this before - check the flexible rubber lines are not blocked. Did you fit the correct size wheel cylinders?

You do see and learn new things from these forums. I have worked on all sorts of cars over the years but I have never seen a spring system like the pic kryslerkid posted.

I agree with 493Mike normally a brake lever has no need for a return spring. I have two Mopars and neither has a spring on the brake lever. Probably the reason you cannot find it in the factory manual.

Mine has the electronic version of the original regulator it was on the car when I purchased it. Amp gauge is steady. If everything is working correctly the old points style would not fluctuate the amp gauge either.