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Are they drums or discs?

Also try lubricating the inner cable. Nothing waxy or too stiff and gooey.

I make my own generally sometimes raise them up away from the oil. The idea is the valve can only see "air" but not raw oil.

Not sure about Edelbrock covers might pay to check them. I modify all baffles in any case. Stock is pretty good - see how the Edelbrocks match up.

As mentioned earlier make sure the PCV valve is well baffled or it will suck oil out of the engine. A lot of aftermarket covers have very poor baffling.

The console screws go in to the long slots so you can shift the console around a bit. The console just sits and is held lightly by the four screws - it is not "cranked down"

That looks like an automatic console top plate. The manual shift ones are different.

My headers were supplied from TTI coated. They are on a 340 but they are their shortys and they work and fit very well. Initially they stayed a shiny silver and the car was driven for around 150 miles so it was fully cured. They do advise you to not run a cam in with new coating. I put my old...

I just ordered direct off the website with no issues. I have done this more than once as mentioned. I had no problems with reply's or shipping but to be fair that was once I put in an order. He had my order so it was sure fire deal. I believe his stuff is better - communication is maybe not.

For what it is worth. The Ram Man has an exact copy of the factory Bendix dual diaphragm booster and Hemi master cylinder along with the exact reproduction of the factory power brake lever system that he sells for $525 with free shipping to the 48 states. I fitted this kit to my own car and it...

I had a quick look at both and I think I would go MP Brakes as their kit has the repro copy of the standard lever system. Go with 1-1/8" bore and dual diaphragm.

Why do you want to disconnect the battery while the car is running?

It also helps to probe for any holes with a pin or fine sowing needle.

Is it the same wiper motor?

Looking at your pics you seem to have it right. I am sure you will have a burr somewhere.

Is there a slight burr in the hole or on the wiper motor? You may need to clean up carefully with a needle file.

Yes I believe you can get it 180 out. That crank can go on either way. Work the linkage by hand to ensure no binding and it looks to be working right. Do not connect to the motor until you are sure the direction the motor and linkage rotates in and it will not jam up. Lay the linkage out of the...

When I did mine I connected up the wiper motor electrically and ran and parked it. All without the linkage connected. At that point you cannot get that crank wrong.

In your post you mention proper non vented cap. Your diagrams show a vented cap in all scenarios. You need a vented cap. Also it mentions the overfill valve is not on all models. Perhaps you never had one? The basic idea is the cap is vented and the fuel expands into the liquid/vapor separator...

I think it is the headlight on warning buzzer.