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Wow, that would be like high school shop class all over again.

That could be a real handy fabrication tool.

It looks like a punch

The Brick was a good scanner for the non OBD-2 systems. Call it OBD-1 or the old code 12 system if you wish. That all started in about 1980 for most manufacturers. Nothing was standard though. GM flashed code 12, Chrysler Corp had their own system. (pre DRB-1 I believe) and Ford was just F**ked...

You won't get much if you don't pay much. Generic OBD2 codes is all you will be able to view. (Common codes all manufacturers use) . Manufacturer specific codes require an expensive scanner that pays the manufacturers for the information or a tool from the manufacturer that has their proprietary...

It's for punching holes in leather. Like for belt buckles and rivets.

We had "zero degree" ratchets on the MAC truck too. They were a roller clutch like a sprague in out Torqueflites. THey did require a few degrees of rotation to get them engaged. The clutches had to be pretty tight to provide strength so they had a lot of drag on the rebound. Once the fastener...

I've got a Chain drive Stanley that has been working daily for probably 25 years. I had a new Overhead Door installed last year and the installer said it will probably last another 25. Spray a little lube on the tube and adjust the chain when needed.

Those things are handy.

:rofl:

Just sayin'

It's not that it's hard or complicated, it's the danger if you don't do it right and you won't know until you mess up and hurt yourself. Your call.

Inductive spark pick up doesn't have anything to do with Multispark. The circuits take one spark signal and send it to the light. Think about how it has to work.

@HALIFAXHOPS usually has some quality lights. He knows what works.

If you are looking for a cup style that fits on the flutes on the end and you use the same filter each time, take it to the parts store and match it up. There are a lot of different filter sizes and flute numbers often times just 1mm. or one flute different than the next one. Depending on your...

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/cam-bearing-alignment.255836/page-2

The only reason for Scotch Brite or emery cloth is that the amount of material you remove is easier to control. A bearing scraper is better for burrs on the edges. I used one for years at a pump manufacturing firm I worked at to take the burr off the cut off end of machined bores to check...

A old friend of mine that built many race cars always used Scotch Brite and solvent on engine bearings to take the first layer off. He had found pits in the second layer in prior builds and wanted to make sure there were none. Have you ever installed cam bearings had had a tight one? Scotch...

Good on you to get things straightened out. Lisle is a good company that listens to customers. You just need to ask. I haven't measured the thickness of a cam bearing but if a guy had a lathe, he could turn out some stepped aluminum arbors specifically for driving Mopar cam bearings. The Lisle...

The Lisle set is probably the best. I know of 3 machine shops here that use it. Think of how they are removed and installed. THey are driven in and out with the tool and a hammer. I have installed a few sets and it's tough not to booger up an edge or mar the surface. Scotchbrite, a bearing...