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No difference on mine, whether aluminum or iron.

I've used Fel-Pro cork on everything for decades; I just glue them to the cover and use a smear of axle/bearing grease on the head side as basically a release agent. Same deal on carb base gaskets & etc.

^^^ Me too. No problem behind a 540-HP Hemi Road Runner.

The spacers are a good idea for roller rocker arms (at least the Harland Sharps I prefer), though with some rockers you can hammer on the OEM covers' oil baffles for clearance. Before Medici made them, I was making them - a few years ago & don't have any left - and I was losing my butt selling...

Most likely the manifold is warped, but may be cracked. Having it surfaced will seal it to the head. As stated above, factory didn't use gaskets at exhaust manifold to cylinder head.

Front lip of the pan is likely hung up on a crank counterweight. Try rotating the crank a bit. On my SB Duster drag car, I found that spot and marked the balancer. I could have its big pan off in 20 minutes, including pulling the center link that went through the pan. It had a tray, but it...

If it's not available, look at gas cap gaskets, or maybe just make one.

There was an episode on GYC a while back with a similar deal. Mis-stamps are rare, but also happened on VIN tags, of all things. Nobody had any idea that most of those cars would ever be as valuable as they are now.

I know the guy that had them made many years ago - it took a big order + the tooling and an original sample. Not much profit and not a big market, so the return takes forever; the seller (not me) isn't getting rich off them, trust me...

"A990 Mopar shift" will bring it up. $145.00, but the right one without "Park".

I've had a GV in my Dually since the mid-'90s - it's been absolutely bulletproof and great for highway use, including towing - truck has a 4.10 gear. Worth easily 3 MPG, not to mention wear & tear. Every couple years I change the fluid, though it always looks fine.

Duration on those cams @ .050 ? Tire diameter ? Usage ? mostly street, sounds like. Figure out cam 1st, then converter. I wouldn't go wild with either, as with the GV activatd, the gearing will be pretty tall; might go with 3.91s depending on where the car spends the most time. The 741 is not...

Overlap or narrower lobe CL will bleed off some dynamic CR. Aluminum heads help a bunch vs iron, and I've run 10.5 on 92 w/alum heads without issues, and smaller cam of those two RBs was a 224/234 @ .050 Engle. I don't think I'd go with more CR unless a bigger cam, but I've used the FelPro 1009...

That's just hype. No differences I can recall - the design details were dictated by wiring & heater hose brackets for a given year (or years) and/or model line up until '70, when they changed for emissions, and the later raised center on the BB covers. Obviously in a few applications they were...

I just use the FelPro cork, permatex to the covers after checking rails & bolt holes for flatness & straightness. Smear a little brown bearing grease on the head side & install. I'll double check the fastener torque - usually have to tighten once or twice - and no leaks.

...or bend the tabs on the cap... IIRC, I once added a push-in breather to a set of MP cast covers by drilling out one of the blank holes & using a grommet.

On a '74 Duster I did with a 406" stroker and AC, I just re-used the factory stuff: fan, shroud, radiator. Had no problem keeping the same temp as it did with the 360, even with AC on in Calif heat. Was an AT car, stock converter & gear.

Me, I'd break out a tape measure and measure the distance between the two. Then I'd contact a local driveshaft shop and have them build it, with good U-joints. I have a spare one out of my '64 wagon, and another from my Duster race car, but I'm clear across the country in northern Idaho.

The Eddy AVS2 I have is great - and not too hard to make it look mostly like an original Carter AVS. Fits 5 1/8" air cleaner base, just like a Holley or stock AVS. The Eddy fuel inlet is a hose barb, but proper threaded fittings are on Ebay. Mechanical choke models are hard to adapt to the Mopar...

FWIW, I ran that cam decades ago in a 383 '69 Road Runner with stock converter & 3.23s, basically a stock restoration. It was a bit healthier-sounding than the stock cam and was easy to live with. Car ran well but wasn't especially fast, which I was OK with. I don't recall the springs I used...