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I like to have a switch for electric fuel pumps.

No, rearward of it, approximately centered in the floor - you'll see the hole, maybe 1" diameter.

It comes up out of the harness by itself and goes through a grommeted hole at the front of the depressed center area of the trunk floor.

^^^ Yup. Condition is everything, really. Potential trouble spots aren't too difficult: ammeter, bulkhead connector, column harness connector. If a harness requires replacement, reproduction from one of the established guys (Evans, M&H) is best: basically plug & play, and the FSM is your guide...

I think you can get by with a 3/8" hole; grommet size may drive the hole size decision. On my ex-Hamburger Duster, the cable went through the firewall, up through a defroster vent, and the tach was screwed to the dash pad. I changed that setup & replaced the dash pad & mounted an AutoMeter tach...

What are you going to do with the car ? Street use, Hemi pan is fine. Drag racing or prolonged high-RPM, I'd use the biggest pan I could. In any case, a windage tray or scraper is a good idea. I've run the deep 8-quart Milodon pan on several BBs - in early Bs, '68 RR, & A-bodies - and never hit...

I'll assume everything else is working OK ? Most wiring issues are due to a bad ground, but the rheostats themselves are often the culprit; especially the thumbwheel type '68-up. Pull the switch and look for corrosion on the rheostat. Should be able to test for output to the cluster lamps with...

I've used a few of their kits - did a 12V neg ground alternator conversion on a '53 Ford pickup, and a few LS swaps into FJ40s & a Jeep - and used the AAW kits that are more hot-rod oriented. They're a lot less $ but had everything we needed. They make a nice product: good instructions...

You can run that stuff along the factory path. You can use something like Adel clamps, or fab a trough, or use some fire sleeve, whatever you like.

Check out "Bernoulli's principle" on Wikipedia, it applies to velocity through a venturi, and hence carburetors; you can see how a ported vacuum source works. As applied to vacuum advance, a light throttle increases vacuum via velocity. When the throttle is wide open, the vacuum signal drops to...

36 without vacuum is about right; with vacuum, cruise advance can be as high as 55. Every stock or mostly stock BB I've owned really liked 10-12 initial, and the ones with big cams like 18-20; but in either case you have to limit the mech advance. That's almost always part of re-curving a...

If instructions didn't come with the MSD unit somehow, they're online all over the place. Just Google something like "Mopar MSD schematic" and make sure you pull up the Mopar application. You can bridge the BR a couple different ways: invisibly from behind it by replacing the innards with a # 10...

I've always used the same plugs as I did before adding an MSD6. I generally use Champions; though the quality appearance of NGKs is nicer, I haven't seen a performance advantage. For non-stock/non-restoration applications, the F150 epoxy coil & pigtail (about $40 @ AutoZone) is great. Quicker...

I did one with the Year One top cap, and decals off Ebay. Used a Duralast group 24 from AutoZone, cap fit it perfectly. Where the caps pose a problem is the factory hold-down: cap's a bit too wide. Had to bend the hold-down a bit and notch the cap. Group 24s - I checked several brands - are all...

Most electrical problems are due to a bad ground; check the bulb sockets and the ground wire(s). The fronts are at the radiator support upper yoke.

Google "braided split loom" - looks better to me than the GM-style stuff. But even that is available in a lot of diameters.