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#8 chrome plated phillips-head sheet metal screws, about 3/4" long IIRC. Stainless will work.

I haven't used one of those, but that isn't a good product review ! I've used mostly Milodon or MP, but I open up the louvers a bit to promote better drainage. Also a big proponent of using the biggest pan I can fit in the space allowed, but that sounds like probable overkill for the OP.

Street use = no problem. The issue with wet-sump shallow pans is that the rotating assy scoops oil up from the sump as RPM increases. At higher RPM, that oil becomes a rope around the crank & rods, which not only creates drag, but aerates the oil. Smokey Yunick proved that on his Spintron back...

Also, Pat Blais in the Seattle area - I think he still sells on ebay as tflite-patty or something similar. Great guy to deal with.

Speedway has a universal plastic shroud that I used on a 26", think it was something around $50 a few years back. That fan in front of the radiator is blocking airflow when not in use.

'62s & '63s have the same curvature at the rear of the hood & at the cowl. There may be a difference in the profile of the hood's underside, but I would doubt that. Since those seals are so floppy, not sure it matters. OP might also try restorationspecialties.com

It was a column-shift, and I added the floor hump for a floor shifter. Might have worked with column shifter, don't know.

Had a 318 3-speed '64 that I swapped a later (all-synchro) E-body A230 into; That was pretty much a bolt-in once the floor hump & carpet was done. Used a Hurst shifter. On my '63, it was more involved going from 3-spee to A833, as it was a swap to a BB, and I changed the E-brake setup. I think...

If it has provisions for seat belts, typical Chrysler locations are at the sides of the driveshaft tunnel and inner rockers. You'll have to pull the step plates & carpet to find them, though a good look at the sides of the driveshaft tunnel is quicker. If you have to drill, locate the locations...

What are the goals for the project? Nice driver or show car? Solvent-based or waterborne 2-stage? If waterborne, air movement is more important than with solvent-based. Single-stage will be less expensive, but more demanding in terms of cleanliness & application. BC/CC will have better UV &...

Yeah, the rubber bulb section takes a while to crush; just latch the doors best you can and wait a day or two.

Yup - upside down.

I put 285/70R15s on 15x8 4.5BS steelies on my '63 Savoy wagon - tight but it worked. I narrowed the rear axle a bit, though. Yes, the front wheel openings interfere with tall ft tires, more so on early Bs than later Bs.

I don't recall the exact length, but you can stick some modeling clay at the mounting hole & push the bezel into it to get a measurement. I THINK there are 2 outer stand-offs.

Back in the day, I ran VW Beetle tires on my 4" fronts - I think it was a 165-185 width equivalent and probably a 75-80 sidewall. Didn't corner very well, but that wasn't the car's purpose...

Yup - lever on the left side of dash, like the '63s. Pull down for Park.

Possible; the eng/trans in my ex-Hamburger Duster is set back a bit...

Yeah, most photos show the car from the right and at an angle, but IIRC the rear axle most always looked a bit "extra-legal"...yet the front wheels look normally positioned. Later on, HL (or someone) altered it further, and went to injectors. And yup, Plymouths have always been better than...

Saw this on Stock/SuperStock racers' FB feed...note rear wheel location, hood scoop, team name doesn't mention (Butch) Leal, though I don't know the timeline for his involvement. Photo caption on FB said "Beeline", but not when...

Appears to be the after the straight front axle was swapped in, as IIRC that happened when the wheels were moved forward. The nose-up or elevated stance took a while to die out - in SoCal, at least, it was around '66-'67 when guys started applying better-working suspension & aero. Remember, the...