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I know a lot are running diesel oil in their gas burning engines. Probably all are fine at low rpm daily driving and cruising but those diesel oils are not formulated for higher rpm performance gasoline engines. Just my .02 cents.
As you have already saw, you will get many, many opinions on what you should do. So here is mine and from my own experiences. I would definitely install higher compression pistons to work with the better breathing 452 heads because a 440 loves compression. Shoot for as close to 10:1 as possible...
Depending on where you buy, I would say to go roller would average around $750.00 more in expense vs a flat tappet hydraulic. Collapsing of a lifter isn’t the issue, it’s the metal wearing away on the bottom of a flat tappet lifter and sending the metal throughout the engine that I wanted to...
My last build was a 327 Chevrolet. I built my 440 over 20 years ago and it still has a flat tappet hydraulic. No one was having issues with cams going flat or possibly bad cam stock back in those days.
I see you got the removal taken care of. For myself, when the drivetrain is in the car, I like to remove the four bolts and remove the trans only first as I am a one man show with no transmission jack. Installation is a lot easier when reinstalling the trans to install the clutch first, then...
I believe 7 psi per 1,000 rpm is all that’s needed. My street/strip 440 has lived 20+ years with a high volume pump, 7 quart oil pan, and Hemi full groove bearings at higher pressures very similar to the OP. I also have a 175 shot of nitrous on tap that gets used.
Those numbers are very close to where mine have been for years. If I did anything at all, I would switch oil viscosity to 10w30. Roll with it my Friend!!!