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I had this issue with my 97 Dodge truck. I removed the drum and removed a lot of rusty scale from inside and it was fine from then on.

Worn lower control arm bushing’s are not to be overlooked either.

A good brake bleeding is where I would start.

I think it is a prop and distr valve. I have the box a new one came in and it is labeled as a combination valve.

I’m pretty sure that is a GM style prop valve. My 55 Bel Air has this same valve and it too has front disc/rear drum brake set up.

A couple more pics with the Hemi springs.

I don't remember exactly but I think it was either Hensley Racing in Knoxville, TN or Mancini Racing in MI. It has been a while ago since I installed them and they cost me around $200.00 for the pair. They have served me well for over 25 years and I do recommend them to you. Here is a link for...

Not in the weeds but probably lower in the rear than you are looking for. I have a 7 quart Milodon oil pan and its never been a problem. It has Hemi (one extra leaf on each side) springs under the rear and I adjusted the front torsion bars to my liking and it rides as well as a new Cadillac...

Would you consider lowering the front via torsion bar adjustment to get your rake? I installed new hemi rear leafs under mine then adjusted the torsion bars to get the look I wanted.

Well it went really well and I was expecting a tougher fight with the weird headed bolts! I am pleasantly surprised and happy to be finishing up this job!!! Thanks to everyone for the tips, advice, and offering up tools!!! I love this forum!!!!!!

I have 3 inch ARP studs all the way around the car and they are tack welded.

Yes, thank you, I saw that before I commented and I wonder how much I will miss them if I leave them out. I'm not sure but seems to me they might not be such critical bolts on a floor shifted transmission. Just wondering. I think it might be easier to assemble if the column were out of the...

I am at a loss as to how these two nuts and weird head screws serve a purpose. On my hub the nuts were just threaded on to the weird screws that were seated in their recesses and nothing in between. ???

Thank you very much for the offer moparnation74! I had the day off and went to Harbor Freight and bought the cheap mig welder then fabbed one up and it did the job for me.

Lord knows I would pay premium price for a Miller C-4044 removal tool or a home made version at this point.

It seems that no amount of prizing will move that pressed on bearing upward on the steering shaft on my car. Does anyone have another idea of how to remove it other than removing the entire column and pressing the steering shaft through the bearing?

I was unsure of myself removing it in this fashion and was thinking I should just remove the entire column and press the shaft (if possible) but I will keep working with it. Thank you Sir!!!

I have the nuts off too but it looks like the bearing has it locked on.

On a 69 road runner is it possible to remove the hub under the steering wheel without removing the entire column? I have the snap ring off but it's not budging.

I currently use the Mickey Thompson ET Street's and they really help tame my Mopar when I really get into the 850 double pump Holley. I have had the Hoosier Quick Time Pro's and they hooked really well too. I can't comment on either regarding thier peformance on wet roads but I don't think any...