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Acetone will mix with water in any ratio. That's why it is not considered a V.O.C. You can use it to thin epoxies and paints without pissing off the E.P.A., and I don't think it will touch catalyzed paint? need to try it on an inconspicuous spot!

This is how I like to put "not so full" quarters on. I don't like messing with the joint in the roof!

It's important on the 68 and 69 B bodies to have the deck lid on and aligned when you final weld the quarters on. The quarter extensions need to have a nice even gap between them and the deck lid, and the quarter panels need to be even with the extensions! You have to do whatever it takes to...

Clean the paint with denatured alcohol to remove all of the wax off so the glue sticks and you're going to need a nice LED light to see what you're progressing. They're pretty cheap on flea-bay. And a suction cup mount. Not too bad once you get the hang of it.

I just use Klean Strip Phosphoric prep and etch at Home Depot for about $22.00/Gal. That removes most of the rust and what's left, it converts. Cover with a couple of coats of Epoxy primer.

A friend of mine owns a body shop and many moons ago we worked in the same shop. Doing collision work you never wanted to have to do a job over so we used good supplies. We went to DuPont seminars and learned about how not to get yourself in trouble. Then came along PPG, R&M, Sherwyn Williams...

I've never used Kirker before, but those wrinkles tell me that the prior coats of primer didn't dry all the way, and the reducer was still trying to leave the previous coat. I personally use a DTM just like you did and then wait three days depending on the temperature and then use Evercoat G2 or...

Here. I just saved your Marriage!

I put a new headliner in my X at my buddies bodyshop years ago. Two weeks later the little buggars set up shop over the driver's side visor and peed all over their new nest! Had to rip it out!

I bet if you POP one of those blisters you'll get water out of it. If you fix it now, you'll be able to paint just that lower area up to the body line and you're done! Fix it! The car is beautiful! Think of the music from the movie, JAWS!

Go check them out! It's been many moons since i've been there.

What I don't understand is that paint is not porous! Moisture shouldn't be able to be trapped like that. The paint looks very nice too! If moisture is trapped, you'll have to strip it to bare metal and re-shoot it. Sorry Man! Let us know what you find. Good Luck.

Nothing is perfect! There are no encyclopedias on our cars.

There is a book that is out of print but you can get it on Google Books. It's a roadrunner/charger restoration guide.

I had to dig out some of the seam sealer in my gutter on the Passenger side of the car and replaced it with 3M single stage grey seam sealer in the caulking tube. I let it set up for a couple of weeks and then shot Evercoat Slick Sand over it. No adhesion problems at all. I sanded through the...

I know that on the 68 GTX the front and rear clips are different!

When I was a toddler, my Dad would bring me to our local Earl Schieb to watch the people prepping the cars before they went in the spray booth. One day I noticed a lady breastfeeding her infant while she was masking off the letters on a front fender! WoW! Multitasking way back then! I guess alot...

You may not know this, but Evercoat makes some products that are sprayable polyester similar to Bondo but much thinner that will seal anything under it! Featherfill G2, Superbuild 4:1, Slick Sand. It's great for blocking, and will seal whatever you put it over. Read each products directions.

When that car was painted by MAACO they probably used Acrylic Enamel. It will lift at the edges if you put anything "Hotter" over it. You can try a little epoxy primer over it because it's catalyzed and hopefully will seal it off. Let it dry for a couple of days and then wet sand it with 600.