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You're right, the auxiliary shaft turns counterclockwise because it's being driven by the clockwise turning cam sprocket that is connected by a chain to the crankshaft thats also turning clockwise. Look at the 45 degree cut on the cam and you can see that it's being pushed rearward.

I hate to beat this drum again, but the direction of rotation drives the cam towards the back of the block because of the direction of the helical cut auxiliary shaft. The taper on the cam is to "spin" the lifters so they wear evenly, not push the cam back. I will guess that that oil pump takes...

With the Helical cut auxiliary shaft installed and the rotation of the engine, the camshaft is always thrusted against the block. The Auxiliary shaft turns the distributor and the oil pump so it can't have any front and backward movement.

I would measure the fit in the housing for size and out-of-roundness. Looks like the outer races were not being supported??? Just my 2 cents!

How's about changing the input shaft???

Why so many wires??? You should only have two, one hot battery cable and one from the solenoid.

The main reason that the Denso starters work so well is that they have permanent magnets in them and not field coils. No juice required to energize the field coils. They Kick ***!

I agree, Jeff Peterson's post is correctomungo! I got mine from Mancini Racing. Keeps the leads away from the block. About $20.00? My choice would be a Denso starter because they're very good quality.

You might as well squeeze as much heat out of the trans fluid before you re-circulate it! Just a stand alone cooler would have to be so much larger.

Just like the factory Hemi cars, from the trans to the radiator cooler, then out to the auxiliary cooler, and then to the rear of the trans!

So, you can slice some of these areas off of the K-frame if you want. I also had to cut a relief in the drag-link to clear the drain bolt! The idler arm side of the drag link also had to be "Massaged" to keep from slamming into the right rear corner of the kick-out. I will be adding some...

That's a good question, but remember what I said before about that part of the K-FRame really close to the left front kickout on the pan! I'll run out and take a pic for you. You have to make that decision!

The whole assembly has to go in from underneath! There is a clearance issue in multiple places if you try to put it in from the top. That pan is really close to a part of the K-frame near the engine mount on passenger side just in front of the pan. The problem is that the top part of the bell...

Yeah, you're right! I was thinking that they were 5/16". If the studs are 3/8", then a 10mm metric tap would be the magic bullet. That would be 0.394", which is 0.019 bigger than 3/8". I got cornfused with Curious Yellow's post about the thread insert. Thanks!

There should be about a 0.001 interference fit between the two parts. I would take a black sharpie and blacken the side of the crankshaft where the keyway is. All the way out to the end. Then set a 6" scale next to the keyway and scribe a line on both sides. This will give you a guide. Put just...

Going with the Metric tap, you won't need to drill it out. It's just a hair larger and with the threads being loose now I think it would be the esiest.

An M8 X 0.8 tap should do it!

I would find the next larger size Metric thread size and re-tap the hole. Try and match the pitch of the american thread to the metric thread. You won't be going too deep, and you will clean up the hole nicely. No one will know except you and me!

The top of the water pump where the factory put it. Monitors the water coming out of the block.