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So I was installing my column today and noticed some grinding noise while turning the shaft! WTF! I took the SER205 brg. out and found that the spring was contacting the inner metal shield on the bearing. The shield turns with the inner race, or the same as the shaft. The problem is that the...

I had to re-position my distribution block because the headers took up where it was originally located so I purchased two adapters for the master and got a couple of 27" Russell stainless braided lines. Done.

Holy Moly Batman! Unbelieveable! Thanks!

Good luck with that! Cancer causing asbestos linings stopped that from sticking around too long. Most of the equipment has been scrapped. You might find someone, but you better look for old shops.

So, If I have this right, you want to add a vacuum canister to allow you to actually stop? The one way valve on the brake booster keeps the brakes working even if the engine is shut off. If you want to add a canister, that valve needs to be between your intake manifold and the xtra canister. You...

Just drop the whole unit out of the bottom. It will take less time and you won't hurt the car.

All that plus remember that you have to remove the rubber bump stops to correctly install the torsion bars! You won't get them clocked right without removing them!!!!!

Dang! After no replies I started to get worried! I finally found a tech article and a replacement parts kit for rebuilding the block. Its from www.musclecarresearch.com/mopar-brake-tube-tee-rebuild I would attach the directions, but I don't want to lose my house! Here's the title pic.

Can anyone tell/show me how to get the innards out of my distribution block so I can clean and re-assemble it? It looks like the side with the steel plug in it comes out of the bore but not 100% sure. Thanks!

Uh, you really need to replace the races also! Take out and change the inner seal and remove the tapered Timken roller bearings. Then, knock out the races from behind with a long punch. Clean everything and re-install the races making sure they're seated all the way! Re-pack the bearings...

Now you tell me! Thanks for the info!

Thanks for reminding me!

I had my GTX bottom blasted and did two things to make my brain not hurt! It was on a rotisserie, so I mixed up some Epoxy primer and thinned it down with Acetone. I shot all of the areas where the rails are spot welded to the floor pans with high air pressure and a narrow spray pattern. I then...

If you want to protect and stop rust, a good industrial cosmoline will work great but will not look factory. Bed liner looks great but any moisture that gets between the frame rails and pinch welds will be trapped and rust away at the spot welds. Think about what you will have to go through...

Glad you cought it. Quit doing wheelies in front of those Chebbie guys!

The secret to using DOT 3 or 4 is flush and change it every couple of years, but it will still swell and collapse the inside of the hoses!

I would just use DOT 5 fluid to lube the parts. Grease is something other than the fluid and I have no idea if there will be a problem or not. If it's synthetic or silicone lube, you should be fine. It's scary what old brake fluid turns into after ten or twenty years! I put new wheel cyl- inders...

I previously said, DO NOT mix DOT 3 or 4 with Silicone brake fluid! Not compatible!

Dot 3 or 4. Does'nt play well. Silicone is more or less inert.

I put Silicone in all of my motorcycles and never had a problem. Clean, clean, clean!