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I sure wish that someone, (Any fabricators out there????) would weld up a set
of stainless HP manifolds that flowed better that cast iron units but looked similar.
If your engine is stock and you are running the cast iron exhaust manifolds you don't have much of a choice.
2-1/4" is stock. I don't know of anyone that squeezes a 2-1/2" pipe in there? 304 stainless is definitely the way
to go because you'll only buy it once, but you have to shop around. I...
Permatex Muffler/tailpipe sealer. $3.99 @ ACE Hardware.
It's a high temp pottery clay that will seal the slip-joints.
Any excess you can wipe off with a damp paper towel.
I just purchased a Hooker Blackheart 304 Stainless system from Mancini for around $900.00.
Compared to all of the aluminized steel systems it was a steal! Quality is great and I never
have to think about it again. Won't rust and is designed to fit the B Bodies tucked up nice and
snug. Haven't...
The Mopar Engines manual recommends 2-1/2". Engine masters did a whole episode on exhaust
system sizes on the dyno and found that 3" was optimal, but 2-1/2" was right there. So many choices!
I believe FlowMaster makes a Stainless System (300 series) for B bodies when you do a
Gen 3 engine swap. I can't see how this system wouldn't fit perfectly with a little custom
work where it hooks up to the headers/Exhaust manifolds. I'm thinking of it for my 440.
A Hemi moves some air. Flow numbers are not what us wedge boys are used to!
Look at the charts and think about what you're going to do with the car and then make a decision.
Yeah, I put salt on my fries too but I'm one of those guys that likes to
buy these type of things once, Even if they cost more. Sounds like a great deal though!
Only one left!
Thanks for the heads up! I read the listing and can't figure out what grade of SS
it actually is. If it's 409, it's not worth dealing with because it will rust but if it's
309 or 309L it should be fine. The reason I'm stressing this is my replacement
exhaust system on my Wife's Sequoia is 409...
Helped a neighbor overhaul an International Club Cadet engine last summer. some of the head bolts
didn't want to come loose. Had to drill two out. The hardest part was getting someone who could
overbore the cylinders for new pistons. It's not a big-block chevy, so none of the local machine shops...
Why does the bolt go all the way through the casting to the other side? Is it also threaded and seized?
The bolt head can be drilled through the center with a 1/4" drill to let the threaded shank collapse when
you heat it. This will aid in removal. Make sure you center punch the head to keep the...