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I have a 6 quart Hemi pan, the stock 3/8" pickup and a windage tray. Cold pressure is quite good but drops like a rock once the engine warms up. I'll have to look at the pressures with the engine at high rpms. The 10 psi per 1000 rpms just seems low to me but when I had Chevys, that was common...

Yes..I wish I'd known before...anyway..that engine has provenance sentimental value to us and will become a back up engine...thank you for your input

Perfect. ( well not really, sorry to hear that.) Brake clean the hole out, get the right bolt and washer, and red loctite it with torquing it to 55. This must not have been done previously. Probably need some new valves too.

I pm'd him the numbers.

For those who cannot see it.

Linky no worky.... But if it's me, I wanna jam all the gears AND have me a woodgrain wheel!

It's possible as mentioned, to to run into a lack of pressure at high rpm, resulting from not enough lubricant at the oil pickup point. Done it myself. My buddy and I could hear my lifters. This was 30ish yrs ago. Found the solution and have never had that occur again. My daughter now runs and...

Nice. :thumbsup:

Plain Jane steering wheel....musta been swapped out ...A100 seat might be worth a few bucks.

Thank you ...all of you....i literally went into hibernation after finding out what happened. I am now i believe 30 days away from being back on the road...if i didnt already post this..while cruising along come to find out the cam gear bolt backed out and the chain broke and went into the oil...

Mine has one pin missing, but is otherwise in good shape. If you want to discuss it, send me a PM.

A timeless classic for sure :thumbsup:

You would think on a big block it would be pretty hard with only one cam bearing feeding oil, unless the cam is grooved. Stock pan and thick oil maybe.

Back in the late 70's I experienced it... 383, over 6K rpm's & the oil pressure dropped to the point the idiot light came on & the gauge confirmed it... Shut it down, a minute later fired it up & the oil pressure was fine.... The engine had a Crower 280 duration 500 lift cam & kit, hooker...

I'm looking at the Russell angled fittings at O'Reilly's, they say "1/8 Inch NPT", but I believe we have 3/16" outer diameter brake lines? Are the Russell fittings compatible?

I would not worry too much about pumping the pan dry with a big block and shaft rockers. Powell machine has a u-tube video debunking this for most engines. Even with bearing clearance at .002 I could never get by with a standard pump....you need about 10 psi per thousand rpm. I would not leave...

I left the Jacob's ladder off the list mainly due to this type axle housing control "system" being mainly used on sprint cars with the ability to raise and lower roll centers, though they do offer suspension adjustments as well. Sprint car chassis are narrow, and as such, limit the lengths of...

I didn't build it. Psi was just fine but the pump body itself starting leaking externally. I thought the same things dog did so I bought a std pump. Intentional or not, the engine needs the hv at low rpm for pressure.

How loose are your bearings? Oil is getting out somewhere...

I found this out the hard way as well when I replaced an hv with std without thinking much of it. My warm psi is much worse than you report. I put an hv back on it and we'll see how it is this weekend