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On my 67 coronet I've been trying to get the bolt for the brake light switch bracket tight. I've tried a 7/16 wobbly and I can't get a good grip on it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Once again within a week I blew another fuse for the taillights, brake lights. I also don't have dash lights or running lights. I did notice when my high beams were on, I shut them off and that's when I noticed I lost my lights. Could that be a issue with the dimmer switch or headlight switch...

I've wired a Longacre 4 post battery disconnect switch that also has the alternator disconnect all in one. I have a Gm 1 wire alternator, should I leave the factory + wire on the alternator?

Anyone have pictures of how the battery is mounted in the trunk of a w023 car? And wanting pictures of battery cable routing from battery to starter.

This is a puzzler. With the lights off the left blinker works. Lights on the turn signal won't flash. Wiring looks good. What could be going on?

Trying to get the factory gas gauge to work with my jaz fuel cell. I have the blue gauge wire hooked to the sender terminal on the cell, and one wire hooked to the ground terminal to the strap bolt holding the cell in place. Turn the key and nothing. What am I missing?

how accurate is the jaz sending unit in a fuel cell? I notice there's no adjustment. Wondering if anyone had any problems with inaccuracies ?

I've been trying to get some Hid headlights to work on my coronet. I've got hylux 35w ballasts with 8000k cnlight bulbs. And had to get a morimoto 9007 harness to work off the battery. Ive had so many problems with blowing bulbs and ballasts. Just wondering what everyone else has done to make...

so I've got a distribution block I'm using for my hot wires for tach, fuel pump, roll control, afr gauge and voltage gauge. The other half of the distribution block will be for gauge lights. I will run 1 wire from the block to fuse box for each. Do I need to run a jumper wire from one set block...