‘Re-Born’ B-Body Dana 60

ignition1

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Sorry to have done this to an original axle, but it needed to be done. Just finished removing the axle tubes out of Dana 60. Band saw off the ends to make handling center section easier, plasma cut the plug welds out, pressed them out surprisingly easy (press didn’t even really register any pressure).

The rear end had been modified with traction bar mounts and was bent beyond repair like 1/2” off of centerline into a U, from end to end. Either from damage or excessive heat when welded.

Tried to look for part numbers but it had been ground off when the welding occurred. Only found a date of 1967 and measured 54-1/4” flange to flange.

Ends are still in good shape and will be reusing them. Just ordered some new 3” x 1/4” DOM tubes and should be in shortly.

Final set up will be at E-Body width, 4.10 gears, rebuilt Powr-Loc 35 spline with new clutches, replacement axles from Dr. Diff & green bearings, press in studs for 11” x 2.5” drums.

A8A54717-A273-4AD0-9360-8E846EF94690.jpeg A7DD5578-9AD4-4DBF-A617-6099F319C0E8.jpeg
 

ignition1

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Good one :) just something a little stronger to handle the hole shots, didn’t want any problems in the future
 

Nxcoupe

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You are actually saving it by the sound of it. As long as it isn't going under a vega or a camaro, it's all good.
 

ckessel

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On my 70, I used a b-body 8.75. Pulls the wheels in 3/4" per side, put new perches on. Had plenty of room on both sides with t-thrust 15x8.5"s and 265/50-15"s.It would have rubbed some with the e combo on those tires/wheels. I was also using the 0" arch Kit Car springs on the back with 1.06 KC bars on front.
 

1 Wild R/T

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On my 70, I used a b-body 8.75. Pulls the wheels in 3/4" per side, put new perches on. Had plenty of room on both sides with t-thrust 15x8.5"s and 265/50-15"s.It would have rubbed some with the e combo on those tires/wheels. I was also using the 0" arch Kit Car springs on the back with 1.06 KC bars on front.

Agree, B body width actually is a very popular E body upgrade.... I'd build it back as a B body housing & use Dr Diff's spring re-location kit... Puts the spring closer to the frame & gains you clearance for more tire...

https://www.doctordiff.com/e-body-offset-spring-hanger-shackle-kit.html
 

ignition1

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Good ideas, never really thought about keeping at B-Body width with offset hangers. I’ll keep that in mind, still have some time before the tubes come in :)
 

chargervert

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Have you seen the prices for Dana 60 original rear ends these days! I need one for a 71 B body, but I am not paying 4 to 5 grand for one! I will be getting a new Strange one for 3k. About 5 years ago I bought two 68 to 70 B body Dana 60s,and I paid $1100 for one and $1250 for the other. They are double and triple that amount now!
 

Cranky

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Many years ago I bought 25 Dana 60 '501' housings that had 2 3/4" tubes but were still 1/4" thick and also bought a full stick of 3" DOM in plans of removing the small tubes from at least some of the 501 housings. These housings were for light duty 3/4 ton Ford trucks and had semi floating axles. Over the years I sold one or two here and there and even set some up using the smaller tubes and didn't use much of the DOM so there's still a pretty good piece of that still here. There's not too many 'back yard' rear end builders even though I don't consider what we do as shade tree.....my shop is still in my back yard :). If you don't mind me asking....how much did the DOM cost you and how much did you buy? Don't remember what the stuff I got cost....too much water under the bridge since then.
 

ignition1

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Many years ago I bought 25 Dana 60 '501' housings that had 2 3/4" tubes but were still 1/4" thick and also bought a full stick of 3" DOM in plans of removing the small tubes from at least some of the 501 housings. These housings were for light duty 3/4 ton Ford trucks and had semi floating axles. Over the years I sold one or two here and there and even set some up using the smaller tubes and didn't use much of the DOM so there's still a pretty good piece of that still here. There's not too many 'back yard' rear end builders even though I don't consider what we do as shade tree.....my shop is still in my back yard :). If you don't mind me asking....how much did the DOM cost you and how much did you buy? Don't remember what the stuff I got cost....too much water under the bridge since then.

3”x1/4” DOM tube is surprisingly expensive, summit quoted ~$35 per foot plus shipping (which is not cheap either), with a 2 month lead time. In the end, I paid ~$200 for 2 pieces @ 24” long landed at my door.
 

Cranky

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3”x1/4” DOM tube is surprisingly expensive, summit quoted ~$35 per foot plus shipping (which is not cheap either), with a 2 month lead time. In the end, I paid ~$200 for 2 pieces @ 24” long landed at my door.
Dang! From what I can recall, 200 (or there abouts) was what I paid for a full stick delivered from a supplier in the Houston area....but that was probably 20 years ago. I live about 15 miles east of Houston and they delivered it for no charge. Still have about 15 foot of it looks like...
 

Dan64

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Not a death, more of a rebirth. Glad to hear that your'e not trying to get it under that Porsche
 

ignition1

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Recieved the DOM tubes this week, turned down the ends for a .007-8” interference press fit, housing ends cleaned up and beveled for welding.

D051C2D0-12DE-4601-BE0E-7ACC565B4853.jpeg 53BC1D08-B146-44D1-8893-0C546CAECAF3.jpeg 7B4E1791-03A8-4960-AECC-3AECE6C8613B.jpeg
 

Hemirunner

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ignition1

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I remember reading in a publication the interference fit was between .005-.010” and around .007” it required roughly 20-30 ton press. The press I am working with is 50 ton.

What do other folks do? How much less?
 
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RJRENTON

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Yup... I'd be looking for .003-.0035

Rule of thumb, .001 per inch of diameter

Alternate rule of thumb: 0.0005" / 1.000" of diameter for a heavy press fit. For 3.0000" OD DOM TUBING = 0.0015" interference. But different shops/millwrights have their own preferences and opinions and methodology.
BOB RENTON
 

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