130 amp 1 wire alternator question

[peakandscoot]

is any one running a one wire 130 amp Alternator. Can you or How do you run it through your original dash gage. was told that 130 amp will fry it.

 

[wish4hemi]

Don’t run it through the original gauge or bulkhead. Do some reading:

https://moparconnectionmagazine.com...age-with-a-mopar-110-amp-one-wire-alternator/

https://moparconnectionmagazine.com/how-to-convert-an-ammeter-to-a-voltmeter-on-the-cheap/

 

[Ironbuilt]

I have a 140 Amp single wire Tuff Stuff alternator in my pick-up. Do not run it through the original gauge. I run mine directly to the power post on the starter relay, using 4 gauge battery wire. I also grounded the casing to the engine block. No more charging issues. I also have all aftermarket AutoMeter gauges in the truck.

 

[383man]

Actually if you have not added anything to the cars electrical system the 130 amp alt will only put out what the car and battery demand. So if you had a 40 amp alt on it and it kept the battery charged and supplied the electrical system on the car then the 130 will only put out about the same because as soon as it meets the cars electrical load the voltage regulator kicks the alt back to its desired voltage setting around 14 to 14.5 volts. The only real difference will be it will charge more at idle so you may not see the lights dim some at idle in gear at night. Now if you add electrical things then yes it will put out more to meet the demands and may need wires changed.

But as others have said its a great idea to bypass the factory amp meter and to rewire the bulkhead to get rid of that connection that gives problems and then add a volt meter to the car. But remember if you add any extra electrical loads to the car then the 130 amp alt will put out more to supply everything and could then burn wires. And as others said it a good idea to run a new output wire from the alt to the battery of a larger size then 10 gauge. I ran mine of 4 gauge which works good.
I added a one wire 100 amp alt to my 63 Sport Fury and most of my wiring is still stock in the car other then I bypassed the amp meter and ran a new output wire to the alt and new battery cables to my battery in the trunk. I have been running mine for about a year now. Good luck , Ron

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Ammeter can be kept in place and working. In SOME cases even bulkhead wouldn't need to be bypassed or parallel path added, but better to do it. Ammeter mantenience will be a HUGE plus.

YouR loads won't be increased with a higher output alt, and in fact will be reduced because battery will be most of the time out of the game ( which doesn't happen with stock alt ). Which adds loads are the accesories added. SOOOO no matter the size of the source, the accesories will rule out how much you need and will be supplied, not the source.

Think on this, you can either fit a 500 amps batt or 900 amps batt, your glove box light ( as an example ) or related wiring won't burnt due the higher battery capacity, just will be able to hold the load supply for longer period. This example ilustrate why you don't need to be fear about the source amperage. in a certain way, lower is in fact more problematic than higher.

The ammeter is actually a batt gauge. Will read what batt supplies or need to get recharged. When your engine is running the alternator will supply the power and ammeter is virtually out of the game on this stage. With a good alt, the ammeter will be reading ZERO, which is the best status you will have. ZERO reading it means no load coming or going throught it.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0/all.html

To accomplish this you need to feed all accesories from alt side of the ammeter, never from batt. Having ammeter feed accesories from batt post is a HUGE mistake.


Critics ( and attacks ) coming from some ppl coming in

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[Ernie ingling]

Dead on Nacho bigger is not better will NOT make more hp and will not melt wiring.
THIS SITE NEEDS TRAINING CLASSES

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Don’t run it through the original gauge or bulkhead. Do some reading:

https://moparconnectionmagazine.com...age-with-a-mopar-110-amp-one-wire-alternator/

https://moparconnectionmagazine.com/how-to-convert-an-ammeter-to-a-voltmeter-on-the-cheap/

And the myth is perpetuated yet again. Yes, do some reading, plenty of more accurate info right here on this subject, search “ammeter”. Still waiting for the original ammeters in my cars to spontaneously combust, high loads, 130amp alts and a fully functional ammeters registering “0” while in operation.

 

[peakandscoot]

Actually if you have not added anything to the cars electrical system the 130 amp alt will only put out what the car and battery demand. So if you had a 40 amp alt on it and it kept the battery charged and supplied the electrical system on the car then the 130 will only put out about the same because as soon as it meets the cars electrical load the voltage regulator kicks the alt back to its desired voltage setting around 14 to 14.5 volts. The only real difference will be it will charge more at idle so you may not see the lights dim some at idle in gear at night. Now if you add electrical things then yes it will put out more to meet the demands and may need wires changed.

But as others have said its a great idea to bypass the factory amp meter and to rewire the bulkhead to get rid of that connection that gives problems and then add a volt meter to the car. But remember if you add any extra electrical loads to the car then the 130 amp alt will put out more to supply everything and could then burn wires. And as others said it a good idea to run a new output wire from the alt to the battery of a larger size then 10 gauge. I ran mine of 4 gauge which works good.
I added a one wire 100 amp alt to my 63 Sport Fury and most of my wiring is still stock in the car other then I bypassed the amp meter and ran a new output wire to the alt and new battery cables to my battery in the trunk. I have been running mine for about a year now. Good luck , Ron

Ya i am putting a completely new wiring harness in my 62 convertible because i have added AC, fuel injection, electronic ignition, and lights.

 

[Crash520]

Hey guys, question for I don’t know the answer, I see most people run the charge wire to the starter terminal, is there a reason they go to the starter terminal or solenoid rather than directly to the battery post particularly when the battery is prob only a foot away?

 

[383man]

Hey guys, question for I don’t know the answer, I see most people run the charge wire to the starter terminal, is there a reason they go to the starter terminal or solenoid rather than directly to the battery post particularly when the battery is prob only a foot away?

Many can also run the alt output wire to the starter relay which is where most of the cars battery power comes of of on many older years. To run it to the starter is ok as long as the hot feed to the car takes its hot feed from the starter hot stud. Some run the battery cable only to the starter stud and then run a smaller wire to the starter relay that feeds the car and charges the battery. But all this depends also on if you keep the amp meter in the car as if you do you have to run the alt output wire to the cars side of the amp meter so it will read right and show whats going in and out of the battery. If you eliminate the amp meter you can run the output to the battery but the current just has to travel through a bit more wiring back into the car. Thats the good thing about adding a volt meter as you can run the output wire to the battery of the starter relay hot stud but its no big deal to run the output wire back to the cars side of the amp meter if you like keeping the amp meter.

The only thing I dont like about the series amp meters on many 60's cars like my 63 is that all the current is running through a 50 to 60 year old amp meter and if the amp meter dies so does the car. Myself I like the shunt type amp meters since the shunt carries 90% of the load and if the amp meter part dies the car will still run since the shunt is carrying most of the load. Mine worked fine in my 63 but I just have better piece of mind bypassing my 60 year old series amp meter and added a voltmeter. Ron

 

[RJRENTON]

I have a 140 Amp single wire Tuff Stuff alternator in my pick-up. Do not run it through the original gauge. I run mine directly to the power post on the starter relay, using 4 gauge battery wire. I also grounded the casing to the engine block. No more charging issues. I also have all aftermarket AutoMeter gauges in the truck.

View attachment 1126601

This is a pix of a GM 10 SI or 12 SI alternator....WHY would you put it on a Mopar? ...inquiring minds want to know.......
BOB RENTON

 

[Ironbuilt]

This is a pix of a GM 10 SI or 12 SI alternator....WHY would you put it on a Mopar? ...inquiring minds want to know.......
BOB RENTON

I prefer the single wire and it works perfect with my billet aluminum brackets. Add to that the fact that it's readily available. That's on my pickup. My 63 has a mopar alternator.

 

[peakandscoot]

This is a pix of a GM 10 SI or 12 SI alternator....WHY would you put it on a Mopar? ...inquiring minds want to know.......
BOB RENTON

this is mine it is a Chrysler 1 wire

 

[Ironbuilt]

View attachment 1129508
this is mine it is a Chrysler 1 wire

My 63 Dodge 440 has a Chrysler alternator. The single wire pictured is on my 1977 Power Wagon. It's a 440 that is built to beat the crap out of it the mud, woods, etc. The GM alternator was available and works great.

 

[Ironbuilt]

This is a pix of a GM 10 SI or 12 SI alternator....WHY would you put it on a Mopar? ...inquiring minds want to know.......
BOB RENTON

I responded to your question, now you have nothing to say? I figured you would ridicule me like you do @Nacho-RT74 for no reason at all.

 

[RJRENTON]

I responded to your question, now you have nothing to say? I figured you would ridicule me like you do @Nacho-RT74 for no reason at all.

The GM 10 SI or 12 SI are excellent performers.....reliable design, good available of parts, and good capacity capabilities.....but on a Mopar? What was wrong with the Mopar alternator?.....its just as reliable and available...ridicule you....No, i don't know you.....but good old Nacho has no real knowledge of electrical systems and their design or function . If you want to discuss my capabilities or knowledge, please PM me.
BOB RENTON