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1962 header info..

icetech

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So.. i did enough reading to get confused :) I am switching my 62 poly to a LA and hadn't considered exhaust til now (still early, just planning ahead.. haven't found a engine yet) But i decided to look for headers.. i have read that basically any b-body headers even into the 70's would fit.. then i read that i think 62-65 the engine is moved forward and the later headers wont work? Basically just looking for some clarification.. The 62 has the flat motor mounts but i don't think they will be an issue. This is just a beater/driver and TTI/Dougs are stupid expensive to me. Hoping someone might be able to share what actually works?
I saw Just mopar joe used shorties on his.. but it's a 65 and i'm not sure on the changes as far as headers go..

P.S. i could still end up with a big block (if one falls in my lap) but am mainly thinking small block so i can keep the pushbutton..
 
I put a 70 LA 318 and 904 in my 63. Summit and Jegs have budget headers coated and un-coated.
I bought the Summit un-coated (painted) #SUM-G9040 less than $250. Ceramic coated #SUM-G9140 less than $400.
Fit fine lots of room in a B body.I now wished I got Ceramic.You do have to remove the center link and pass it thru the driver side header.
Photos

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Thanks much! I didn't know if the 62 would be any different due to the older type motor mounts but should be fine.. And yeah.. knew about the center link, i have never run a small block before but when i was a kid my friends had them and that center link issue seemed like the end of the world back then, now it's just another 10 mins :)
Found a 69 318 near me for $250.. might snatch that.. Really wanna try doing a 318/390 stroker.. but that's for another year
P.S. i had seen those headers on their site but they listed them for trucks, didn't realize they were b-body also :)

I put a 70 LA 318 and 904 in my 63. Summit and Jegs have budget headers coated and un-coated.
I bought the Summit un-coated (painted) #SUM-G9042 less than $250. Ceramic coated #SUM-G9140 less than $400.
Fit fine lots of room in a B body.I now wished I got Ceramic.You do have to remove the center link and pass it thru the driver side header.
Photos

View attachment 1398273

View attachment 1398274

View attachment 1398276
 
I screwed up on #G9042 is not correct. #G9040 is for a B body
I'll change it in post #2
 
I screwed up on #G9042 is not correct. #G9040 is for a B body
I'll change it in post #2
Kind of wondering if those are the same as Flowtech 13100FLT.. I know summit relabels a lot of stuff to resell as their own. Only reason i wonder is... although i hate amazon.. parts are free from them (5% back on business credit card adds up fast) and free is always a bit better :)
FLowtech Link
 
Pretty much any header should be above summits' free shipping cost threshold.
The 62-65 have the motor in a different spot than later B"s, but nobody has ever said what the problem area is that makes later headers NOT fit.
I would try jegs or Summit brand full length headers, uncoated, till I know they fit, or after "modifications" (read:big hammer) have been made. Then, either coat or paint.
Shorties should be easier, but in a 62, I have no idea if they would fit.
 
The 62-65 have the motor in a different spot than later B"s, but nobody has ever said what the problem area is that makes later headers NOT fit.
In my 64, with 383 and hooker competition, the big issue is where the pitman arm and idler arm swing. Had to beat a few pipes to about half squashed. 440 might be a bit better from being taller.
With a 440 and the big tti's, no problems with fitment at all.
 
In my 64, with 383 and hooker competition, the big issue is where the pitman arm and idler arm swing. Had to beat a few pipes to about half squashed. 440 might be a bit better from being taller.
With a 440 and the big tti's, no problems with fitment at all.

I honestly don't think i have ever had a set of headers that didn't need "Adjustment" :)
 
I think the fit problem is with header for big blocks. I once tried to put a set of early B Body headers on my 67 Coronet. The right side tubes pushed back into the firewall so far that it would take a sledge hammer "massage" to make them fit.
 
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