1964 383 build

[4 speed fury]

Hey guys! i'm new here. i'm rebuilding a 1964 383 engine/4 speed with 373 gears It's been bored .030 over. I've ordered KB 400-030 pistons,284/484 purple cam,it does NOT have power brakes
I'm using 906 heads that were flattened up 2-5 thousandths,weiand 8008 intake and a AVS 2 650 carb, would like to keep the stock manifolds. it's not getting raced (well not at the track)lol just a driver/cruise in car im looking for a healthy engine with punch and some lump over the stock engine.The intake and carb were on the car when I bought it a couple months ago and fairly new thank you!! looking for a little advise is this a good combo??

 

[khryslerkid]

Welcome from Pennsylvania!

What car are you building the engine for and do you have any pictures?

 

[68sprtsat383]

Welcome

 

[Don Frelier]

Welcome from NY.
Nice project!

 

[4 speed fury]

Welcome from Pennsylvania!

What car are you building the engine for and do you have any pictures?

pic is posted its a 1964 plymouth fury 383 /4speed

 

[eldubb440]

way cool car

 

[Mopar Hunter]

 

[polywideblock]

G'day from Australia

 

[ckessel]

Welcome from the central coast of Cal.

 

[Dave6T4]

Hey guys! i'm new here. i'm rebuilding a 1964 383 engine/4 speed with 373 gears It's been bored .030 over. I've ordered KB 400-030 pistons,284/484 purple cam,it does NOT have power brakes
I'm using 906 heads that were flattened up 2-5 thousandths,weiand 8008 intake and a AVS 2 650 carb, would like to keep the stock manifolds. it's not getting raced (well not at the track)lol just a driver/cruise in car im looking for a healthy engine with punch and some lump over the stock engine.The intake and carb were on the car when I bought it a couple months ago and fairly new thank you!! looking for a little advise is this a good combo??

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Make sure that you get a set of the newer pushrods that fit the available lifters. I think they changed 1967-1968.

 

[4 speed fury]

Make sure that you get a set of the newer pushrods that fit the available lifters. I think they changed 1967-1968.

i was told the stock pushrods were good to use?

 

[Dave6T4]

i was told the stock pushrods were good to use?

They are O.K. to use, as long as you can still buy 1964- style lifters. The earlier style pushrod has a reduced radius on the end that meets the lifter. The newer pushrods have the same radius on each end. So, the piston in the hydraulic lifter is different between the two styles, as well, to accommodate whatever style pushrod is used. Compare your 1964 pushrod to some friend's newer one.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Welcome to the site from Nebraska. Great car!
There are also two MP 484 cams one with 108 LSA one w 112 LSA. 112 has better street manners. If you are using a Mopar pefprmance cam kit that comes with lifters the pushrods need to be 68 and newer. The older pushrods have a small ball on the lifter end and like said only fit the extinct lifters 67 and older.

 

[AR67GTX]

Get a sanity check on the 284/284 cam with generally stock heads, intake and exhaust manifolds. Back in the early 70s I killed the low end in my 64 383 Sport Fury with a Crower 280H Monarch cam which was all the rage back then. It may have boosted HP some, not sure, but it was noticeably softer from a stop. Mine was auto so you may get better results with a 4 speed. And the 284/284 purple cam may be better than the Crower. But generally I was always impressed that the early 361383/413/426 wedges needed better breathing before much more cam.

But, I’m no engine builder so just suggesting a sanity check.

 

[Rebelrouser]

Hey guys! i'm new here. i'm rebuilding a 1964 383 engine/4 speed with 373 gears It's been bored .030 over. I've ordered KB 400-030 pistons,284/484 purple cam,it does NOT have power brakes
I'm using 906 heads that were flattened up 2-5 thousandths,weiand 8008 intake and a AVS 2 650 carb, would like to keep the stock manifolds. it's not getting raced (well not at the track)lol just a driver/cruise in car im looking for a healthy engine with punch and some lump over the stock engine.The intake and carb were on the car when I bought it a couple months ago and fairly new thank you!! looking for a little advise is this a good combo??

View attachment 1959062

View attachment 1959064

Welcome to the site. I build a lot of street pump gas engines for muscle cars. All my customers ask for the same thing as your description. First in the last few years flat tapper lifters and cams have had quality issues, they are simply using poor materials, and they are not machined correctly, because of this they go flat. So first problem is you have a flat cam the second problem is you have an engine full of metal. I only use hydraulic rollers in my street builds now and yes it costs more but you have the peace of mind it will not go flat, you do not have to run oil with zinc wear additives, and there are performance advantages as well. With the same duration you can get a lot more lift out of the grind because of the roller lifters, and that translates into about 25 more ft. lbs of torque easy on most builds. Second nothing wrong with the heads or piston choice you just need to make sure you have enough cranking cylinder pressure. Static compression ratio does not make an engine run or tell you what kind of fuel octane you need. Cylinder pressure is what you have to worry about. I have built 12 to 1 pump gas engines that ran just fine with no problems for pulling truck classes that require pump gas. I use engine software to balance all the variables on a build, performance trends engine analyzer. Input you specs and it will calculate tons of stuff, like engine vacuum at idle, plot an advance curve, tell you the octane needed etc. And it does not cost all that much. I have a real dyno and if you put good numbers in, it is pretty accurate on the predictions.

 

[4 speed fury]

Welcome to the site. I build a lot of street pump gas engines for muscle cars. All my customers ask for the same thing as your description. First in the last few years flat tapper lifters and cams have had quality issues, they are simply using poor materials, and they are not machined correctly, because of this they go flat. So first problem is you have a flat cam the second problem is you have an engine full of metal. I only use hydraulic rollers in my street builds now and yes it costs more but you have the peace of mind it will not go flat, you do not have to run oil with zinc wear additives, and there are performance advantages as well. With the same duration you can get a lot more lift out of the grind because of the roller lifters, and that translates into about 25 more ft. lbs of torque easy on most builds. Second nothing wrong with the heads or piston choice you just need to make sure you have enough cranking cylinder pressure. Static compression ratio does not make an engine run or tell you what kind of fuel octane you need. Cylinder pressure is what you have to worry about. I have built 12 to 1 pump gas engines that ran just fine with no problems for pulling truck classes that require pump gas. I use engine software to balance all the variables on a build, performance trends engine analyzer. Input you specs and it will calculate tons of stuff, like engine vacuum at idle, plot an advance curve, tell you the octane needed etc. And it does not cost all that much. I have a real dyno and if you put good numbers in, it is pretty accurate on the predictions.

so no matter what cam i run i could run into (cranking cylinder pressure issues) with a 64 block and 906 heads and KB400-030 pistons

 

[69Bee]

Welcome from AZ...

 

[Rebelrouser]

so no matter what cam i run i could run into (cranking cylinder pressure issues) with a 64 block and 906 heads and KB400-030 pistons

Yes it has to do with the duration and the centerline of the cam and how it is installed in the engine. Most of the muscle car engines I do have about a 220 @ .050 .520 lift 110 centerline installed 4 degrees advanced. that is an average as I pick or have a cam ground custom after I flow the heads. I like 10 to 1 static compression with about 150lbs of cranking compression.

 

[4 speed fury]

Yes it has to do with the duration and the centerline of the cam and how it is installed in the engine. Most of the muscle car engines I do have about a 220 @ .050 .520 lift 110 centerline installed 4 degrees advanced. that is an average as I pick or have a cam ground custom after I flow the heads. I like 10 to 1 static compression with about 150lbs of cranking compression.

i guess i should back off on the cam a little? I don't want to lose low end torque .I'd like to keep stock manifolds i dont need a crazy motor! but want better power! it's a weekend driver! what could you recommend doing im not a engine builder and dont want to throw my money away either