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1965 AFX Coronet

funnykarman

Well-Known Member
Local time
3:28 AM
Joined
Dec 15, 2014
Messages
268
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Location
Newnan Georgia
Ok I have posted questions on the 1962 - 1965 page but this what I am working on . My 1965 AFX coronet that I started over 20 years ago , where has the time gone .? Had 2 builds started but due to time and age had to choose 1 car to finish and enjoy . I installed windows and all the tin work , fuel cell and shock mounts . Pulled the Hemi out of the 66 Cuda and changed it back to carb set up , put the rear sump oil pan back on and installed the Lakewood bellhousing and the TTI headers . Hanging the Hemi on a motor plate and leveled the car , motor and motor plate . Ready to weld in the motor plate tabs . Last couple of shots is a Willys that I built 30 years ago and has been passed on to a grandson to enjoy . Chose the 65 car just keep it simple , Lets see Hemi with a 4 speed with a carb. Just turn the key and go , KISS ( keep it simple stupid ) LOL
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Absolutely love both cars!
If I call you 'grandpa', what you got for me?
Well 22 years ago I took my grandson for a ride in the Willys that he never forgot he was 8 years old . Today he is 30 years old . When I told him I was going to sell the car he asked me how much and I told him , when he told me he wanted I lowered the price and he wrote me a check . He got a great deal and just said he wanted to keep it in the family . P.S. he drives like an old man . We took it out and I showed he how it would bark the tires on the gear change to 2nd and chirp them going into 3nd he said he remembered me doing that when we went for that ride years ago but would never do that . Just wants to cruise and enjoy the ride . Great Kid .
 
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Did a little more work on the 65 car . radiator was heavy with the 2 spal fans so I made a stand to sit it on with 2 one inch legs and mounting pads . Used 2 pieces of thick foam rubber to sit it on , fits in between the lower lips on the radiator . the radiator has 4 welded in bungs to mount it , I did not want to hang it from them that's why I made the stand , made up 2 straps to hold the bottom and drilled holes and mounted the top 2 all this to support and hold it in place . welded in angle iron brackets to hold the motor plate will add to these brackets to help support the motor later when I pull it out to paint and detail the engine compartment . Put the grill in place and started to mount the headlights . Now will have to figure out what factory style hoses to use . Looks like I might have 5 inches of ground clearance on the oil pan . I am going to look into getting a new oil pan make . Built a 1971 Dodge Demon for a friend years ago . He hit something with the oil pan and knocked a hole in it , Had Oil Pans By Charlie Make him a custom pan and had no more Problems . A pan that's hangs that low worries me .
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I need to mount fans in my 63 Plymouth. Are those what they call pusher fans? Would you identify those so I can install those in my car? I guess I would not need my current fan I have in now. Thank You. Tom.
 
I need to mount fans in my 63 Plymouth. Are those what they call pusher fans? Would you identify those so I can install those in my car? I guess I would not need my current fan I have in now. Thank You. Tom.
Tom , the fans are mounted on a shroud that pulls the air thru the radiator . They are made by spal . I purchased the radiator , shroud and fans off of ebay from Dillon Radiators in Rochester Mn. The cost for all of it was $300.00 with free shipping , you will need a wiring kit with relays and temp sensor to run it . I got mine off ebay also . Dillon rad. has a web site and their # is 507-289- 1292 . They may have just the fans in stock without buying the whole radiator . The ones I have pull 1350 cfm each for a total 2700 cfm and they are 12 inch fans on a 31 inch wide radiator . If you do not have the room for 2 fans you can go up to a bigger fan , they make them up to 18 to 20 inches and its best to use a shroud with it to get the best results . Just look around you can get cheaper prices than what Spal asks for . Hope This helps John P.S. when cooling our mopars bigger is better to get the 31 in radiator to fit I just cut back the edge of the frame so it would slid in between the frame rails . I will run my fans with a simple switch , cut on fuel pump start motor and cut on both fans .
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Wow, You have turned the light on for me in fan technology. I agree that bigger is better especially when your running a lot of power under the hood. cooling is such a huge factor when you want to cruise. Thank you for the information and the pictures. Tom.
 
Managed to get the grill and ft. bumper in place . The hood was another story . I got it on but it is not pretty . I know that I am going to pick up a new set of fenders from Sled city fiberglass . I have tried to remedy the bow in the fender but it came back so its best to just replace them . looks good put back together . The front plate was made a long tome ago , with the car being painted green , I had it say Big Green and Mean GODZILLA … LOL
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Finally got to work on the car again . Ordered pieces from Speedway Automotive to get hoses for the radiator . Used a convoluted hose with wire in it on the bottom so the hose would not be sucked in and block water flow . I pieced a top one together with 5 pieces from Speedway . Looks ok but there is no way to get a one piece hose to fit this set up . It will work .
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I have been working on the 66 barracuda funny car that I have sold to a friend in N.C.
Managed to work on the 65 afx car and change out the straight 6 inch shifter handle to a 8 inch one that has a curved handle moving it back toward the seat . Now instead of having to lean forward to shift to first and third gear , the shifter knob is now where it needs to be , a lot closer to the seat and leaning forward to shift is a thing of the past , perfect position for shifting . First pic shifter is in first gear , second pic shifter is in second gear , third pic is the shifter with the old straight stick . Thanks John
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What handle 0015? I just put my super shifter with bracket in .. had to cut the hump pretty good was gonna try a bent shifter handle as well...
 
What handle 0015? I just put my super shifter with bracket in .. had to cut the hump pretty good was gonna try a bent shifter handle as well...
, Yep 0015 handle , was listed for a mustang with a hurst shifter , works perfectly with my bench seat , just unbolt the old one and put the new one on . Hope this helps John
 
I have the same identical problem with my front fenders. I put a long 2X4 behind the bow and rigged up a jack to push the bow out. Left the car in the Arizona sun at 110 degrees and got most of the bow out. Still need a little more, but want to fix the back end of the fender at the door gap first. The fiberglass is too thin and flexible, it doesn't match up to the curvature of the door. So I took the support (at the aft end of the fender) from the steel fender and will see if I can bond the fiberglass fender to it to hold the shape to match the door. I thought of buying another set of altered fender, but seeing you have the same issue, a new set will probably end up being the same. So for now, plan to get everything as close as I can, then let the body man do his work with Bondo.
 
I have the same identical problem with my front fenders. I put a long 2X4 behind the bow and rigged up a jack to push the bow out. Left the car in the Arizona sun at 110 degrees and got most of the bow out. Still need a little more, but want to fix the back end of the fender at the door gap first. The fiberglass is too thin and flexible, it doesn't match up to the curvature of the door. So I took the support (at the aft end of the fender) from the steel fender and will see if I can bond the fiberglass fender to it to hold the shape to match the door. I thought of buying another set of altered fender, but seeing you have the same issue, a new set will probably end up being the same. So for now, plan to get everything as close as I can, then let the body man do his work with Bondo.
Who did you get your fenders from . Mine came from a man in Texas that was doing them on the side . They were very poor quality , top lines were wavy and full of holes , the fender at the door had a glass support in it that the made this panel flat and it was sunk in at the wheel opening . He did refund me a little money but is still had the bow in the wheel well opening .
I did like you did and used a 2x2 1/4 square tubing clamped to the out side of the fender to pull it straight , it helped a little but the wheel opening would still take 1/4 of mud to get it straight . Way to much bondo over a wide area . I am going to try Sled city for my next set of fenders . I have their AFX hood scoop and it looks good and straight . I talked to Larry and he can make them with extra glass for street use . Thanks John . I see you are in AZ , are you near Tucson ?
 
Who did you get your fenders from . Mine came from a man in Texas that was doing them on the side . They were very poor quality , top lines were wavy and full of holes , the fender at the door had a glass support in it that the made this panel flat and it was sunk in at the wheel opening . He did refund me a little money but is still had the bow in the wheel well opening .
I did like you did and used a 2x2 1/4 square tubing clamped to the out side of the fender to pull it straight , it helped a little but the wheel opening would still take 1/4 of mud to get it straight . Way to much bondo over a wide area . I am going to try Sled city for my next set of fenders . I have their AFX hood scoop and it looks good and straight . I talked to Larry and he can make them with extra glass for street use . Thanks John . I see you are in AZ , are you near Tucson ?
Hey funnycarman, give me a call sometime and we will talk shop again.
 
OK , folks have moved Georgia , but do not know many shops that I can trust to do some work on my Dana 60 . I have a set of Mark Williams caps that will be used . Got housing free and it had no caps . They will need to fitted and cut to work . Then will need to get the dana assembled . Have called a few shops around town but did not get a good feeling about them . Just about 50 miles outside Atlanta . Also looking for a good shop to look at my 472 Hemi crate engine , it was built 15 years ago and was broken in on a dyno , did not have any thing in the oil pan to indicate any problems , still has oil dripping into pan when I changed it a few months , Just want to go thru short block and have crank and rod clearances checked . If anyone has a good shop to do this let me know .
 
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