1967 coronet pro touring

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  1. aeon280

    aeon280 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Finally getting going on my Coronet. After several house projects this summer and getting the paint done on the car, starting to get some of this pile of parts on. Got the passanger side dissasembled and mostly back together tonight. Gonna finah this side hopefully tomorrow with new disk brakes.

    20170808_205343.jpg 20170808_205334.jpg
     
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    • 451Mopar

      451Mopar Well-Known Member

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      Is that the QA1 lower control arm and strut rod?
       
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      • 1967coronet440

        1967coronet440 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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        Yes
         
      • aeon280

        aeon280 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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        Yes its qa1 contol arm and strut rod. Pst 1.03 torsion bar and spc upper control arm. Building the wilwood 12.19 disk tonight and have to wait till sunday to finish since i didnt have tie rod ends on order yet. Adding aluminum adjuster sleeve as well.
         
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        • 1967coronet440

          1967coronet440 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          Looking good, I'm doing a similar build with my 67. I have a thread here in the pro touring section doing similar upgrades as you
           
        • aeon280

          aeon280 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          Yeah I have checked it out a few times. Plan on adding a four link to mine maybe next year. Curious what front sway bar you are using with the qa1 lowers? They are pretty vague in their description on the website when it come to the pre 68 cars. Im pretty sure it says you can only use their sway bar but also that you have to use their k frame on pre 68 cars.
           
        • 1967coronet440

          1967coronet440 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          I have the summit brand, summit tech told me it would work with them and after mocking it up I don't see why it wouldn't. However I've decided not to use a front sway bar since my build went more towards a drag car, I'm only running a rear anti roll bar. I have the front bar listed for sale here, it's brand new still. if your interested shoot me a message
           
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          • aeon280

            aeon280 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            No pics today but got the passenger side most the way done. Note for anyone using the SPC upper CA. Before installing let the adjusters out on both front and back where there is about 3/4 inch of thread showing otherwise you end up with the a boat load of Negative Camber. Still need to figure out the steering linkage. Thought I just needed tie rods but when I got into the driver side I found that the pitman arm is trash and wobbles around in the center link.
             
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            • Budnicks

              Budnicks You Can Just Thank Me Latter FBBO Gold Member

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              I like your parts selection & build style
              :thumbsup:
              keep up the good work

              thanks for tips too
               
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              • 451Mopar

                451Mopar Well-Known Member

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                That is alot of adjustment. My friend has the SPC uppers, stock boxed lower and stock strut rods. My Coronet has stock upper, stock boxed lower, and the QA1 strut rods. Do you do your own alignments, or have a good shop that knows how to adjust those parts?
                I bought the parts to do my own alignments after two shops totally screwed up the alignment.
                 
              • aeon280

                aeon280 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                I know an ol

                I know of a couple of shops locally that still can do old school alignments. The box stores suck because the 20yr old doing the work is useless if the computer doesn't tell him exactly what the specs are. I will take it in initially to set the initial road alignment and then adjust accordingly when I take it to autocross or road course events.
                 
              • aeon280

                aeon280 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                I finally got this ole girl back on the ground. Camera broke on my phone so no pics to share at this time. Thought I would update on a couple of issues I ran into along the way that might help others doing similar updates. This is a lengthy explanation but is that way because when I was looking for information on some of these upgrade there was none to be found, especially with the steering column info.

                As previously stated I found I needed to have about 3/4 of an inch of thread on each side of the adjuster for the SPC control arms to have a starting point for Camber adjustment.

                The PST long pitman arm will not work with long tube headers and the borgeson steering box. Had to use a standard pitman arm. My headers are headman long tube headers for small block LA.

                Another issue I found with the PST system. I used the full front steering system with 11/16 rod ends and steel billet sleeves as well as their fast ratio idler and pitman arm and 1.03 torsion bars. I found on the passenger side I had to remove the grease fitting from the outer rod end because it hits the torsion bars. I did not use the fast ratio pitman arm but did use the idler since my understanding was the idler was eventually used by Chrysler anyway to correct steering geometry.

                On to the Borgeson box install. This was fairly straight forward. Since I have a small block in a big engine bay I was able to remove the steering box without raising the engine. The borgeson box is so much smaller it slid in an had it bolted down in 5 mins. The one issue I had was i had misplaced the instructions for the box and was using an old install on hotrod or speedsociety site for reference. Here lies the problem . Somewhere along the way borgeson redesigned the box slightly. All the pictures I found online had the return line on the engine side of the box, this is no longer the case the return is now on the fender side of the box. Swapping them resulted in some severe whipping back and forth of the steering wheel upon start up. I have swapped the lines now and all is well except they leak. I will get the lines remade this weekend to correct that though.

                For anyone interested I installed an ididit 35" tilt steering column so did not use the Bergman adapter. I did require 2 u joints for this application one to go from the 36 spline borgeson to 3/4dd and another from 3/4 dd to 1"dd steering shaft. with the 35" column I needed about 6" of 3/4 dd rod to connect the 2 u-joints to the each other. No one makes a 1"dd to 36 spine borgeson u-joint so that's why i went this route. I go into so much detail because I refused to pay 900 dollars for Ididit or Flaming rivers Mopar specific column. Its a joke because its still a GM column that they slap a wiring adapter on and a couple of holes to connect your original column mount. I did a lot of research and measured my original column the best I could and found that their 35 inch column would be the best option the shortest that may work would be 33inch .You can pick either of those up on Amazon for 299 unpainted and use flaming rivers lower mount adapter 49.99 to hold the base. it mounts to the original floor mount holes to reduce the hole to the new 2:shaft diameter. 32 inch which is the most common will not work, it will be to short to reach trough the firewall.

                Wilwood disk brakes with Mancini adapter plate and dual disk drum reservoir. Summit prop valve.


                The biggest issue I ran into here was the prop valve install. You will need an adapter to go from the MOPAR brake fittings to the tiny Chevy based fittings on the prop valve input and output. Also on the Wilwood kit it appears you can install the calipers inboard or outboard. Also make sure you keep the little package the bearings and seals come in. The Wilwood part #,s will not cross reference with the auto parts stores system but in small print on the package there is another part # that will cross reference. I damaged a seal installing it in the hub so was able to order a new one at AZ for 3 dollars instead of ordering a replacement from Wilwood for 13 + shipping and waiting for it to arrive.

                Also got my quarter extensions, tail lenses, and trunk panel reinstalled. Had them hydro-dipped with a carbon fiber pattern. I know its not to everyone's liking but I think it turned out real nice and was a lot more affordable then having all the panels restored with new anodizing and polish.

                Coming Soon.
                Pics
                Windows and doors- Trim and seals.
                Wiring- Trunk battery relocate. Ron Francis 7x24 Access install.
                 
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                • 5.7 hemi

                  5.7 hemi FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  There is a 36 spline to 3/4 DD u joint, I'm using one myself. Just gotta ask....why use 2 ujoints? Unless you had the DD shaft going through a bearing support, your asking for trouble. The DD shaft should go straight from the ujoint to the column.
                   
                • aeon280

                  aeon280 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  Because the Ididit column is 1"DD. Could not find a 1"dd to 36 spline adapter so I had to go 36 to 3/4 and then 3/4 to 1"DD.
                   
                • 5.7 hemi

                  5.7 hemi FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  The inside of the 1 DD is 3/4, so the 3/4 DD shaft slides into it. I'll post a pic of my set up.
                   
                • 5.7 hemi

                  5.7 hemi FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  Here's mine...

                  IMG_1822.JPG
                   
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                  • aeon280

                    aeon280 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    Did you push the 3/4 dd shaft into the 1"dd shaft? How are they fastened? I originally considered doing that but the manufacturer expressly states not to do this as it will round out the shaft over time or possibly even break the 1dd shaft. .
                     
                  • 5.7 hemi

                    5.7 hemi FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    Just push it inside. It needs to be this way for safety, wouldn't want the column to punctuate your chest in a front end collision.

                    It's perfectly fine for the shaft to sit inside the 1 DD, you need the slip for the reason stated above.
                     
                  • aeon280

                    aeon280 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    Ok sounds good. Here is my current set up but that make complete sense.

                    20170921_180301.jpg
                     
                  • 5.7 hemi

                    5.7 hemi FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    86 that top ujoint and get a longer DD shaft and your golden!
                     
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