1968/69 HEMI car engine, transmission, driveshaft, and rear end installed angles.

2blader

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Hello guys,
I bought a 69 Bee with a RB Hemi a year ago and been working out the bugs. Beautiful car but some of the things done will make you shake your head so now I question EVERYTHING. Since I am a Chevelle guy some of this is foreign to me coming over to MOPAR. Car was built in 2014, had less than 500 miles on it, never aligned etc. Engine built in 2009. Last year I took the car to Barton to have the carbs redone, installed, and thrown on the hub dyno just to get the car running. A starting point for me. Ray looked at the engine and said “hmmm it looks like the engine is not sitting the way it should”. As if it was sitting to high in the rear. Car has a cast iron scatter shield and a 833 behind it. Out back is a 8 3/4 rear. Seems like the transmission crossmember is an aftermarket item. So what I am asking is how do I check that everything is at the proper angles. I also question fitment because the scatter shield is extremely close to hitting the pinch weld on the top side of the transmission tunnel. Picture attached and thanks in advance Scott.

image.jpg


image.jpg
 

autoxcuda

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Looks pretty underneath. Maybe one of those fab shops that builds a "pretty" car, but lacks all function. Plenty of those around. Practically everything in SEMA.

Does it have a hemi k-member or Schumacher conversion mounts?

Cast Iron scattershield? Sure that not just a stock bellhousing. The numbers on those are on the inside surface between the bellhousing and trans.

It looks like a 66-69 trans cross member. but you need to figure out what trans extension housing you have.

1657991444873.png


What is that electronic sensor out the speedo socket doing?

Sounds like you have a parts swapped for conversion and a bunch of aftermarket mod parts. Be prepared to do a lot of research measurement. Do you have a lift? Cause someone's gotta spend some time under that car. Either you or a good shop to find and correct the issues ($1K to start, then up).
 
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Robertop

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Hello guys,
I bought a 69 Bee with a RB Hemi a year ago and been working out the bugs. Beautiful car but some of the things done will make you shake your head so now I question EVERYTHING. Since I am a Chevelle guy some of this is foreign to me coming over to MOPAR. Car was built in 2014, had less than 500 miles on it, never aligned etc. Engine built in 2009. Last year I took the car to Barton to have the carbs redone, installed, and thrown on the hub dyno just to get the car running. A starting point for me. Ray looked at the engine and said “hmmm it looks like the engine is not sitting the way it should”. As if it was sitting to high in the rear. Car has a cast iron scatter shield and a 833 behind it. Out back is a 8 3/4 rear. Seems like the transmission crossmember is an aftermarket item. So what I am asking is how do I check that everything is at the proper angles. I also question fitment because the scatter shield is extremely close to hitting the pinch weld on the top side of the transmission tunnel. Picture attached and thanks in advance Scott.

View attachment 1313666

View attachment 1313667
Interesting photos! Quite different from my 69 hemi bird. Apparently you put not one, but two oxygen sensors on the exhaust, and that’s ok, but what is that square plug into the transmission? The crossmember is aftermarket, and appears different from a stock unit. Als
 

2blader

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Looks pretty underneath. Maybe one of those fab shops that builds a "pretty" car, but lacks all function. Plenty of those around. Practically everything in SEMA.

Does it have a hemi k-member or Schumacher conversion mounts?

Cast Iron scattershield? Sure that not just a stock bellhousing. The numbers on those are on the inside surface between the bellhousing and trans.

Wait...

That's got a Gear Vendors overdrive on it, right? Some thing may have been moved around for clearance. I'd call Gear Vendors to see what trans mount they call out for in your combination.

Sounds like you got all kinds of swapped and aftermarket parts. Need a good mopar shop to figure this out if you can't. Figure $1K to $3K to start. 10 to 30 hours.
Thanks it is.

thanks for the info. I misspoke, meant steel scatter shield. Only reason I think this is because it has a thin steel block protector and it’s .2530 thick.

Not sure about the Kmember. How would one tell? NO gear vendors on it.
 

2blader

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Interesting photos! Quite different from my 69 hemi bird. Apparently you put not one, but two oxygen sensors on the exhaust, and that’s ok, but what is that square plug into the transmission? The crossmember is aftermarket, and appears different from a stock unit. Als
The reason for two is because I have a cross ram. Thats another thread. Square plug it for the gauges. Thanks for the info on the crossmember. I just do not want to muddy the thread with anything but what I posted…no offense intended. Scott
 

autoxcuda

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Thanks it is.

thanks for the info. I misspoke, meant steel scatter shield. Only reason I think this is because it has a thin steel block protector and it’s .2530 thick.

Not sure about the Kmember. How would one tell? NO gear vendors on it.

Google Shumacher 66-70 B-body conversion mounts and look at the pictures. Then google pics of real 66-70 B-body hemi K-members.

Should be apparent after that.

That electronic speedo through me off on the Gear Vendors comment.
 

Robertop

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The reason for two is because I have a cross ram. Thats another thread. Square plug it for the gauges. Thanks for the info on the crossmember. I just do not want to muddy the thread with anything but what I posted…no offense intended. Scott
None taken
 

autoxcuda

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Sound like this car has a bunch of core issues. Reading that other thread, IMHO you're getting sidetracked with digital dash, radio, wiring...

Fix what's broken first to get this thing to drive right. Then, do additional mods.
 

Beekeeper

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Looks like a factory or reproduction trans cross member to me. If you can get the car level side to side and front to back you can use a bubble protractor across the intake carb flange to see if that shows level front to back and side to side as well. It should very close to level.
 

2blader

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Sound like this car has a bunch of core issues. Reading that other thread, IMHO you're getting sidetracked with digital dash, radio, wiring...

Fix what's broken first to get this thing to drive right. Then, do additional mods.
Not sidetracked the dash has been in. Built cars before. Just want answers to the questions posed.
 

2blader

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Attn. Looking for answer to the question posed above. From people that have the same b Body and engine combo or experience in what those angles should be. IE Pinion angle.

Thx in advance Scott
 

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Attn. Looking for answer to the question posed above. From people that have the same b Body and engine combo or experience in what those angles should be. IE Pinion angle.

Thx in advance Scott
My car is still up on the drivetrain dolly and blocks under the rear tires and is level front to back and side to side.
As fas as the degree angle on the engine it’s around 5 degrees in relation to the chassis. My post above is about all the info I can give you presently and if you do as stated and check across the carbs with a level you will know if it’s high in the rear.
The crossmember you have is correct can’t tell much about your trans mount but if you are high in the back currently your engine mounts are too low. As for the Lakewood scatter shield rubbing the weld flange in the tunnel that is a very common problem And most beat it down flat or grind it for clearance.

If you look closely at an RB or hemi intake you can see that the angle is built into it. In other words if you set it level on the bench the carb opening flange will be near that 5 degrees or so this is to position the carbs level when the intake is installed on the engine.
This pic may or may not help you but here’s one of my 69’ bee.
0AD96761-093F-4DAA-8D6E-AD63FF53D046.jpeg
 
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2blader

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My car is still up on the drivetrain dolly and blocks under the rear tires and is level front to back and side to side.
As fas as the degree angle on the engine it’s around 5 degrees in relation to the chassis. My post above is about all the info I can give you presently and if you do as stated and check across the carbs with a level you will know if it’s high in the rear.
The crossmember you have is correct can’t tell much about your trans mount but if you are high in the back currently your engine mounts are too low. As for the Lakewood scatter shield rubbing the weld flange in the tunnel that is a very common problem And most beat it down flat or grind it for clearance.
Thank you sir…greatly appreciated.
 

RemCharger

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I thought factory drivetrain angle was about 3- 3.5 degrees.
Going by the carb flanges is not the best.
I would try it on the oilpan flange.
I think tti has the info on crank center height from the k member.
Start with these 2 measurements
Obviously with the car dead level
 

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I thought factory drivetrain angle was about 3- 3.5 degrees.
Going by the carb flanges is not the best.
I would try it on the oilpan flange.
I think tti has the info on crank center height from the k member.
Start with these 2 measurements
Obviously with the car dead level
That does sound about right but the target is level carb flange.
 

kiwigtx

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I had a Lakewood scattershield behind a 440, and there was sufficient clearance....Hemi RB should be no different.

I would suggest that someone has monkeyed with the Trans and built a Frankenbox from different parts.

Electronic speedo, dash and hall effect speedo drive can be addresses later on. That clearance to the body is the biggest issue for now.
 

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I had a Lakewood scattershield behind a 440, and there was sufficient clearance....Hemi RB should be no different.

I would suggest that someone has monkeyed with the Trans and built a Frankenbox from different parts.

Electronic speedo, dash and hall effect speedo drive can be addresses later on. That clearance to the body is the biggest issue for now.
I agree but I had a 440 in the bee with all factory mounts and trans and it rubbed the weld flange in the tunnel on the passenger side also agree with remcharger and start with the TTI measurements on the crank centerline.
 

autoxcuda

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My car is still up on the drivetrain dolly and blocks under the rear tires and is level front to back and side to side.
As fas as the degree angle on the engine it’s around 5 degrees in relation to the chassis. My post above is about all the info I can give you presently and if you do as stated and check across the carbs with a level you will know if it’s high in the rear.
The crossmember you have is correct can’t tell much about your trans mount but if you are high in the back currently your engine mounts are too low. As for the Lakewood scatter shield rubbing the weld flange in the tunnel that is a very common problem And most beat it down flat or grind it for clearance.

If you look closely at an RB or hemi intake you can see that the angle is built into it. In other words if you set it level on the bench the carb opening flange will be near that 5 degrees or so this is to position the carbs level when the intake is installed on the engine.
This pic may or may not help you but here’s one of my 69’ bee

How is your Hemi mounted: stock k-member, repro k-member, Schumacher mounts, or …?
 

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How is your Hemi mounted: stock k-member, repro k-member, Schumacher mounts, or …?
RB k member with tin man conversion mounts and I had to modify them some to get the engine in the correct location.
 
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