1968/69 HEMI car engine, transmission, driveshaft, and rear end installed angles.

2blader

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I thought factory drivetrain angle was about 3- 3.5 degrees.
Going by the carb flanges is not the best.
I would try it on the oilpan flange.
I think tti has the info on crank center height from the k member.
Start with these 2 measurements
Obviously with the car dead level
And so we are talking about the same exact thing, where are YOU taking that level measurement of the car/chassis? BYW I am running a Ray Barton Crossram so I would rather not use the carb flange at least for this even thought I will check that too fer shitz n giggles.
 

2blader

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I had a Lakewood scattershield behind a 440, and there was sufficient clearance....Hemi RB should be no different.

I would suggest that someone has monkeyed with the Trans and built a Frankenbox from different parts.

Electronic speedo, dash and hall effect speedo drive can be addresses later on. That clearance to the body is the biggest issue for now.
Mine are tight on each side… around a heavy 1/16. Yes that tight. I have to see if some body shimmed something if possible also.
 

Beekeeper

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And so we are talking about the same exact thing, where are YOU taking that level measurement of the car/chassis? BYW I am running a Ray Barton Crossram so I would rather not use the carb flange at least for this even thought I will check that too fer shitz n giggles.
front to back level at the rocker panels
 

2blader

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those are conversion mounts
F$$k me didn’t want to hear that. . Any way to drop this pig w/o horrible surgery? I will measure soon and get ya some numbers. Just rebuilt by steering column so onto the next shitshow with this car. There will be more.
 

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F$$k me didn’t want to hear that. . Any way to drop this pig w/o horrible surgery? I will measure soon and get ya some numbers. Just rebuilt by steering column so onto the next shitshow with this car. There will be more.
The passenger side mount can be removed by lifting that side with a cherry picker and the driver side on mine was not coming out with the header in place.
Here’s some pics of the mods required on the passenger side to get the crank center line to the correct measurements.

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CFB5744D-DE2F-4CE6-85BE-E76E2E9DAE86.jpeg


B58BA198-803D-4FF1-B259-1040DDC3453A.jpeg
 

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It didn’t take much to get the driver side where it needed to be
 

RemCharger

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The # is 5 1/4" according to tti.
Crank bolt center to top of k member.
 

2blader

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The passenger side mount can be removed by lifting that side with a cherry picker and the driver side on mine was not coming out with the header in place.
Here’s some pics of the mods required on the passenger side to get the crank center line to the correct measurements.

View attachment 1314305View attachment 1314306View attachment 1314307View attachment 1314308

View attachment 1314304
I know this may sound stupid. My engine IS not centered in the engine bay. I guess it is supposed to be. I thought so but.....
 

RemCharger

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I know this may sound stupid. My engine IS not centered in the engine bay. I guess it is supposed to be. I thought so but.....
Nope not stupid, supposed to be 2 1/2" to the pass side frame rail more than drivers.
Crank center to frame rail
 

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I know this may sound stupid. My engine IS not centered in the engine bay. I guess it is supposed to be. I thought so but.....
Yep offset to the right to allow room for the steering gear.
 
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