1968 Charger, looking for advice from folks

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Hi there, I'm a 52-year-old guy who just joined the forum. I'm finally in a financial position to buy/build my dream car, a 1968 Charger. I plan on doing a resto-mod and want to start with more of an entry-level 318 car or something that isn't too rusty or far gone. I came across this ad on Craigslist that isn't too far from me and I was wondering if folks could chime in on whether or not this price is in the ballpark. You don't see these come around very often.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/discovery-bay-1968-charger/7101646692.html

I haven't seen the car in person, but it supposedly is complete with only minimal rust. Is there anything I should look out for in particular? Is the price too high? Any and all advice welcome. Thank you!

Paul
 

myk r sanchez

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Looks ok up top, but you're gonna wanna see inside of the trunk, under the car, at the frame rails, and DEFINITELY under that vinyl top as they are magnets for moisture and rust, etc. Honestly, I would spend more money and buy a more complete, restored car; preferably one with as few body and paint issues as possible because that's where most of the money can end up disappearing, in my experience.

Would you replace the engine? Build up the current one? Swap to a manual trans? What other plans do you have for the restomod build?

Correct me if I'm wrong FBBO, but I wouldn't pay for than 20 for that '68..
 

66 Sat

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You need to check EVERYWHERE for rust. Sometimes it looks like there is a little bit of rust but it's huge. The bodywork and chassis repairs can bankrupt you if you have a shop doing the work. Check the frame rails, cowl, around the rear window, under that vinyl roof (already looks like an issue on one section - hard to tell from the grainy photo), and everywhere else. Everywhere. It also seems expensive to me, but that's because an equivalent Satellite or Coronet would probably be half the price. I love the 68's though and when finished it will be a ripper!
 

myk r sanchez

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Yeah I bet if you peel off that vinyl roof it's going to be a can of worms....
 

finoke

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I was also going to say 20k tops. And that’s if the frame is straight with surface rust only.
 

Demonic

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Good car to start with if the frame is ok. Maybe a little high for a 318 car. Offer 17-18 and negotiate from there? As above, it is all about the metal. Some spots are a given- it will have rust around the rear window channel due to the design. Not a reason to pass on it - hard to find one otherwise. A/C is nice, adds a bit of restoration cost but well worth it. Prices for Chargers are always at the top of the B body world. Look here:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/
 

hunt2elk

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My opinion? That car will sell for around $20K. If I was looking for a project, I wouldn't give more than $15K for it however. You will be upside down in it either way.
You should contact @chargervert. He has several Chargers and was thinking of maybe selling 1 or 2.
 

Jon Erickson

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27k is way to high for a 318 car. (check #’s on engine , trans and body)Last August I found and bought 69 R/Tmaching #’s440 auto ,counsel, buckets , B5 blue ,B- vinyl top, P/Bw/ 4 piston calipers, P/S ,rear window defrost ,rear speaker and cruse control. I payed in the mid20’s for it. It has some rust that needs repair. But it had not been registered since 82 and has original exhaust and break pads still on it. It’s all there and original.
But, it comes down to you . How bad do you want it and can you afford it.
 

4mulas

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That car looks good at a glance, but you’re looking cars that are 27 grand, just double your budget and buy one that’s done. You’ll be many dollars ahead and also be driving immediately not 2-5 years after your purchase.

Projects need to be cheap because you’re going spend 40 days grand plus restoring them, and this is beyond the initial purchase price.

Just my opinion
 

Billccm

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Wait until September October; a buyers market is right around the corner.
 

70chall440

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That doesnt look like bad deal, $8400 plus all the parts. Undoubtedly there is some rust in there but you have cut the quarter off anyway but you could drive the car while you work on it for at least some of it.
 

Builderguy

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The one in Lansing was listed in the under 10K forum but someone chimed in that it was fake as the vehicle was sold for 14K (I think) on another site. Just and FYI as I did not check.
 

threewood

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Builderguy

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Mar 28, 2020#538
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BighouseMember
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BEWARE post 536 may be a scam. Sorry Im brand new here and just happened by this thread - but I was bidding on this car on ebay. It was in OHIO with the same pics and description. I even talked to the owner. It sold for 14,500
 
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Wow, thanks for all the replies gentlemen. That was exactly what I had hoped for. My plans are to convert whatever car I get into a manual trans and to either build a nice 440 or even possibly transplant a modern EFI motor. I would like the car to have a black vinyl top. I'm concerned that if I start with a car that didn't come from the factory with a vinyl top that finding all the trim pieces and figuring out where to drill holes on the body would be a nightmare. This car seems to have all the parts in tact. I agree that it would be way less expensive to purchase a car that was already restored. I already went through that with a 68 Camaro about 15 years ago. But, I do want the ability to have the car painted the color of my choice so finding one that needs paint seemed like a good idea. I've been looking for a 68 locally for about a year and have only ever seen one or two come up.
 

70runner

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The "driver condition" population of 68-70B bodies is diminishing quickly (I know CAPT Obvious). Even 20yrs ago when I started looking for a 70RR vert, choices were pretty much rust city or fully restored, virtually nothing in between. I found a 383 driver, with a reasonable amount of rust, for 9K and restored it to what I would have ordered in 1969. I enjoy the resto part. Sounds like you are doing something similar. I do see 318 chargers in decent condition show up occasionally. If you don't pick up the local one, perhaps expand your search beyond local. If you find something distant, there is usually someone on this forum who could check it out.
 

Builderguy

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IMHO Search out of our area, way out, and find exactly what you want at the price you are willing to pay (I like search tempest). Then you can work out how you are going to look/get it. I live in MI and have road tripped to Alabama twice (once by myself and once with the wife) to look at, and actually purchase, cars I wanted. Even if you choose to have it delivered, the cost is not that bad, usually around 500 to 1000. Figure this all in your offer and go get YOUR car, because it is out there. Good Luck
 

1 Wild R/T

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If you don't pick up the local one, perhaps expand your search beyond local. If you find something distant, there is usually someone on this forum who could check it out.

FWIW What someone from Chicago or New Jersey considers rust free vs what someone from California considers rust free are two different realities...

I've bought enough used parts described as "Cherry" or "Show Quality" that turned out to be un-useable that if I'm gonna drop serious coin I prefer to inspect it myself...
 

pro-streeter

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These cars generally have some rust issues. That said you would want to take much of the advice given in this thread. Even if you found it to be absolutely rust free with no collision damage the price is too high. At the high IMO $15k to $18k
 
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