1968 Coronet 440 2D Sedan(Post) - Windows hard to open when door closed.

[revel68]

We are running in to an issue where both the driver and passenger door windows are very hard to crank down while doors closed. The main culprit is the soft spongy rubber replacement and the window drags hard on it as it comes down. The seal is really nice (but may be too tight?).

The car has lots of work i.e. AMD replacement doors/quarters. Metro Auto glass. So something in all of that could be causing things to be too tight or change how it works(?).

The weatherstrip is Metro Supersoft kit.

If anybody has run in to this and/or has a solution or idea we'd like to hear it.
Thanks!

 

[revel68]

Woops I said Sedan and I meant Coupe! Wish I could fix that.

 

[pearljam724]

If you take the inner panels off. There is a circle cut out 3 or 4 inches below the vent window. There is an adjustment bolt inside that hole and it’s 1/2 if I remember correctly. This allows you to adjust the winding height of the window. It affects front to back movements also. The other problem could be your bushing is too lose that holds your window at the regulator. If it is you can insert a piece of gasket to shim it tighter. The window height adjustment helps with both. Do you have any slop in window as it’s rolled up and down ?

 

[themechanic]

Try some silicone spray on the rubber seals.

 

[69bfan]

Did you replace the window felts? There are some felts on the market that are basically a rubber lip that lays up on the glass to act as a window sweep. These felts are incorrect and will put pressure against the glass as it goes up and down. The correct felts are flocked covered bulb.

As was mentioned above, very small changes in the glass adjustment can make huge differences as well.

 

[revel68]

Thanks guy!

PearlJam: I will talk to him about this. If i recall when I was told about this the worry was that to change it to work better on the back (where the glass rubs on the rubber) we would lose a nice seal on the front.
The whole system feels really tight and nice. but feels like the window is either too close to the car (a bit) or that the rubber is just not the same as stock was and is really sticky.

The Mechanic : This is along the lines of what I was thinking to try. But I had no idea what solution. Thanks. I'll look in to that. We were wondering about a non-messy (clean) soultion that doesn't have to be re-done a lot or flake and make a mess. But making this rubber more like what it would be if it was saran wrapped / shrink wrapped or coated in a light shellac could do the trick.

69bfan : I will bring this up. I hope i know what you are talking about - We have those dreaded insert replacements! They do not curve properly with the glass and I believe the place that has the nice ones is out of stock.... last we looked. (expensive too, but work great). I believe he worked on these a lot to make them as good as possible and they may even be sliding instead of the glass sliding inside of it. I know he's done what he can to make it move smoother and we are working to make the windows even smoother/easier with the door open. But we are afraid that even if we get that really nice the drag on the rubber is just so much it will still hurt.

So what you are saying is that those inserts we are using could possibly be causing the problem? Interesting. We'll look in to that.

 

[revel68]

Pic with window up. You can see it pushing pretty hard on the bottom there.

 

[Billccm]

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clear-Silicone-Paste/dp/B005RNEH5O

 

[themechanic]

 

[revel68]

Focusing on this this week. We are still looking for the best solution.

One thing somebody mentioned was if things look proper in my image in the first place. I am currently trying to find pics/videos of the car as it was. The car has new doors and all kinds of work done. So i'm looking at walk-around super bee / 440 post videos and at pics to try to see if something is off.

Do you guys see anything off in my posted picture? or does it look correct?

thanks

 

[revel68]

Too busy to do a good post with photos right now but with investigation we figured some things out. 440/Bee workarounds I saw that the seal is quite different. So what we did was adjust everything a bit like the glass placement etc... overall adjustments. but the big one i think is gluing the "rear roll" back. basically "tucking it". Which may be using the window for a long time would kinda do itself anyways. The glass was running along that roll but its not supposed to. Its supposed to meet it at full closed but not run on it. Now we have it working much better/smoother by tucking/gluing/rolling that part back.

I could post images later so if anybody else comes across this issue in the future.

So now the only thing making the window roll crappy is these stupid replacement "Vent Window Division Channel Guide". https://www.detroitmuscletechnologi...division-channel-guides-for-all-2dht-2932230/

We are hopeful for new versions of these in the future. For now we are fiddling with these to try to see what we can get out of em.