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1968 Coronet bee clone price

44070dart

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looking for some opinions on value of 68 bee clone .. I KNOW a car is worth what someone will pay, still I ask...

..this is a 2 dr. coupe... less than 10k 440 with a rebuilt 727 automatic trans, the motor has a Comp Cam, Edelbrock intake and aluminum Edelbrock heads with a 750 Holley... open 8 3/4 ....freshly painted was solid western car , solid rails floors trunk.. interior good shape needs a little..two scoop hood, trunk, bumpers, grill included ........nice driver ..ball park is appreciated

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Pretty easy to figure out, figure that car all done is worth under $18K as a driver, now start subtracting what it costs to finish it.. Figuring how many hours at $65 an hour and figuring the parts at 10% above what they would cost you to buy.

I would need a lot more pictures to say exactly what it would be worth, from the pic you have and if all the part were there, depending on the driveline that is in it, I am thinking I wouldn't pay more than $12,500...
 
labor to finish would be mine ..its mostly interior work ...I think he's holding out for 15k .. I have $800 transportation cost that I include in my expense and of course he doesn't ..I'm thinking 12ish ..but I'm in the northeast and here there is a lot of rusty examples that have been fixed around here more or less ...this was a rust free car to start..
 
Great year for Bee's and great color .. I don't know the price but I think it would look great finished

Hi. I'm Tallhair and I love 68 Coronet's and A4
 
$$$$ ..I'm maxed at 15k for finished hobby car (toy :icon_rolleyes:as my wife says) ..no real bee for mee
 
labor to finish would be mine ..its mostly interior work ...I think he's holding out for 15k .. I have $800 transportation cost that I include in my expense and of course he doesn't ..I'm thinking 12ish ..but I'm in the northeast and here there is a lot of rusty examples that have been fixed around here more or less ...this was a rust free car to start..


Your time is still worth money, has to be figured in... I think 12 ish is the right price, I seen the car on ebay...

Heres the issue with these cars, you spend 12, you put 8 into it and your time, the car is worth $18K......... Thats not smart even for a hobby. NOW if it was a bee its different, that stuff effects the value, so it has to be taken into account. the sad truth is, that car is only worth money right now as a retro protouring rig, anything else, no matter how nice, is under 20K.
NOW, if you wanted to drop spindle it, mini tub the rear, throw $2500 of wheels and rubber on it, some disc brakes all around, a fi kit, clean modern interior, a/c, tint the glass, etc. with the right stance, a bad *** stripe on there somewhere, now the car may bring $40K, BUT you are going to put another $10K into it..

AGAIN, you may not care what its worth when its done, but I get the feeling you do since you are asking this question, lol. SO investment wise, I dont see you breaking even, and I see you loosing value after factoring in your labor..

Where in the NE are you, I know where there is a really nice 69, matching numbers, 383 4 spd bucket runner, green black stripe, air grabber, the only thing that is not right is the tag calls for f8 interior and it has a black gut, paint looks nice, decent restored rig, he will take $20K ish cash, car runs and drives perfect... NOW you just go pick it up, pay for it and leave, lol... No work needed, no money, the car should be worth mid to high 20's and you get it for low 20's, so you dont get hurt especially if you own it for a few years and take care of it.

I see these 318, 383, clone, 440 models, base cars, etc. that were nothing special for sale needing full resto and can not understand how anyone can justify putting the money into them, most need $10K in body, 10K in valve train, $8K in interior, $5K in rubber, brakes, and suspension, etc so before you buy the car you are over $30K which may be $10K more than the car is worth...

For $15K I would pass on that clone, now if you are just going to buy another clone and do all that work yourself, then I wouldn't pass.. Its a tough road either way. I would look for a v-code, R/T, big block Bee, or convertible, the money is a bit easier to justify...

There is also a sat vert around here, has a 440 a/c, make a really nice gtx clone, that car is short money its in CT...
 
Your time is still worth money, has to be figured in... I think 12 ish is the right price, I seen the car on ebay...

Heres the issue with these cars, you spend 12, you put 8 into it and your time, the car is worth $18K......... Thats not smart even for a hobby. NOW if it was a bee its different, that stuff effects the value, so it has to be taken into account. the sad truth is, that car is only worth money right now as a retro protouring rig, anything else, no matter how nice, is under 20K.
NOW, if you wanted to drop spindle it, mini tub the rear, throw $2500 of wheels and rubber on it, some disc brakes all around, a fi kit, clean modern interior, a/c, tint the glass, etc. with the right stance, a bad *** stripe on there somewhere, now the car may bring $40K, BUT you are going to put another $10K into it..

AGAIN, you may not care what its worth when its done, but I get the feeling you do since you are asking this question, lol. SO investment wise, I dont see you breaking even, and I see you loosing value after factoring in your labor..

Where in the NE are you, I know where there is a really nice 69, matching numbers, 383 4 spd bucket runner, green black stripe, air grabber, the only thing that is not right is the tag calls for f8 interior and it has a black gut, paint looks nice, decent restored rig, he will take $20K ish cash, car runs and drives perfect... NOW you just go pick it up, pay for it and leave, lol... No work needed, no money, the car should be worth mid to high 20's and you get it for low 20's, so you dont get hurt especially if you own it for a few years and take care of it.

I see these 318, 383, clone, 440 models, base cars, etc. that were nothing special for sale needing full resto and can not understand how anyone can justify putting the money into them, most need $10K in body, 10K in valve train, $8K in interior, $5K in rubber, brakes, and suspension, etc so before you buy the car you are over $30K which may be $10K more than the car is worth...

For $15K I would pass on that clone, now if you are just going to buy another clone and do all that work yourself, then I wouldn't pass.. Its a tough road either way. I would look for a v-code, R/T, big block Bee, or convertible, the money is a bit easier to justify...

There is also a sat vert around here, has a 440 a/c, make a really nice gtx clone, that car is short money its in CT...


WOW .my heads spinning
 
WOW .my heads spinning


Sorry,, I tend to just type what I am thinking. sometimes I read it after and its hard to follow for me, lol...

The short is, don't spend "stupid money" spend "smott money", I know it is for enjoyment, but to me getting a good price is part of the enjoyment.
SO v-codes, high impact colors, rare options, retro rods/protouring, etc have good resale values, that can exceed the investment, if you start off defying all of these facts, you are going to lose money when you sell the car, and I know, everyone says "I am never selling my car", well there are a lot of cars for sale by people who said that, lol...

good luck with what ever you decide, you are buying a mopar so that is half the battle, now just finding the right one, should be fun, nothing wrong with over investigating, no such thing as too much research...

I am not knocking "clones", but to clone a base super bee, to me sounds silly, clone a super bird, dodge daytona, hemi cuda, aar challenger, etc.. I am some day going to make a 70 hemi super bee R/T convertible clone, there are only 2 (maybe 1) of them in the world and it sold at auction for over a mill, so the only way I am going to own one is to clone it, and some day I will find the perfect coronet 500 donor car (a member on here owns one :( ) and I will make the car, I already have the motor, hood, tranny, rear end, a convertible top, badges, a complete restored bumper, and a few other things.. JUST NEED A CAR, lol..

So clones are cool, but clone something cool... Clone a million dollar car, not a $40K car, lol..
 
I'm in western NY ..and we SALT our roads ..MOPAR plus salt = holes....I don't see putting 8 grand in this ..it will need exhaust system, front seat covers, windshield and rear pumpkin as this is a high open rear end..maybe $1500/2000 tops.... maybe you missed the part about 15 max and the labor is my enjoyment ( I'm retired) not a fee that needs to be reimbursed when its sold.... the price they're getting for Bee's and Chargers that were crusher material 30 years ago is pretty insane, so its a clone for me ..not to lie about what it is just like the look ..clone a SUPERbird or any car mentioned for 15 grand :eusa_think:
 
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I am thinking to make that car worth $20K it will take 8K. i have done the cover just the front seat trick, then someone crawls over the back seat and it falls apart, lol...
Legendery covers $700 if you do them your self and done need any other supplies or materials which would be odd, figure sandblasting the frame, painting it all, fixing the foam, recovering with mesh, hog rings and tool, etc.., posi 8 3/4 $900, front disc brakes $1000, all new suspension parts $600 (thats springs, shocks, bushings, tie rods, etc etc etc). exhaust $1000, Right there is $4K+, now everything will start to add up, a wiring harness here, door handles, and cranks, spare tire, and jack, windshield, brake lines, etc etc etc etc, I have done this many many times, I am doing it to a few cars right now, I just came up from sticking wood grain stickers on console trim that I just got back from the chromers... Plus you should strip all that undercoat and paint it body color, as well as under the hood and jambs, if not already done.

After all that is done, the car is worth $18K, thats my point, I think you can do better with your money..


I bought cars like that and learned the hard way, dry rotted tires, rims stuck on the hubs, motors that are supposed to have low miles, only to open them up and see dished factory bored pistons with a +35 grove on each side of the rear 2 cylinders (common on 4bl motors for some reason)... I dont like how that car has no pics of the engine bay, and they did all that work, new quarters, and all that paint work but didnt jamb the car right or paint the bottom? I HATE UNDER COATED CARS, fix a brake line leak and let me how you like that rubber coat, lol, in my experience you use thick paint to hide stuff...

Good luck with what ever you choose, there are a few decent cars in the classifieds here...
 
the car already has disc brakes on it the car was completely torn apart when painted no doors on the car no hood no trunk lid. As for undercoat that undercoat lasts when your building a driver. Eveeyone wants a driver now. And if you guys want pics and to hear this motor run let me know this motor is VERY healthy. Ibwas actually looking for my for sale post on this car to update it on here because i had it listed in primer and stumbled across this. So like i said ive got tons of pics not trying to hide or screw anyone! This car was being built as a driver and is a complete car.

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image.jpgimage.jpgAll of the car tore down to paint. All the cars i do are torn down and painted in pieces and put together.
 
What's the vin number and fender tag info? Was it a base 318 auto car?
 
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Yes originally a 318 auto on column car.
 
its a very nice car.. I've seen many pictures and the video ..it looks rock solid with a great color
 
You asked, so here goes...Nice colors, but the engine compartment is painted black. I don't care if it's a "clone" or whatever, the engine compartment should be body color. Anything else looks like a Chevy guy put the car together. A thousand off just for that alone. Plus those wheels! Yuck.

Next, it's a "clone". It's a "WannaBee". It'll never bring the price of a real 'Bee, and you know that already. Knock another $2,500 at this particular price point, just for that alone. So, with that, I'd go $11,500 and not a penny higher.
 
Here's an issue, if a guy wants a comparable numbers matching real bee the price tag is going to be closer to 30-35gs. This clone, allows for a lot of freedom of making it nicer than a real bee. Two different schools of thought.
 
Yeah 50% of the price of a real one ..100% of the look ....I like the look but can't spend 30k on one.. it went for 16k and needed a few grand to finish.. ..just a little more than I wanted to go ..nice car..I'll keep looking
 
One will pop up around tax refund time. They always do. I'm doing the exact thing with my 69 coronet base model, big 440, lowered, wheels/tires. Retro rod. Pro touring, whatever u want to call it. Good luck. This is a great site.
 
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