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1968 Coronet Brake Linkage Question

Hikin Mike

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My 68 Coronet 500 originally had manual drums. About 30 years ago I added a power brake booster. I don't remember having to change/add linkage under the dash other than the booster rod, but I can't remember what I had for dinner yesterday.

Did a manual brake rod bolt directly from the master to the brake pedal or does it have a linkage? This is what I have now:

i-9KMmcLh.jpg
 
The manual rod went direct from the master to the pedal. Your picture is correct for the power brake set up.
 
My 66 manual brake car had a direct rod to the pedal too and over the years of the cars I parted, the power brake cars had the setup in your pic.....
 
The manual rod went direct from the master to the pedal. Your picture is correct for the power brake set up.
Thanks!

When I did the swap, I didn't add the firewall plate and the brake pedal was still pretty high. I just thought that's how it is. Since then I haven't been able to drive the car since 2006 because I can no longer bend my knees, they are permanently fixed straight. So I've been trying to find out a way to decrease the height of the pedal so I can finally drive it safely again. I added the plate and it somehow helped, but now my brakes don't work as they should. I'll start looking at other issues.
 
Since then I haven't been able to drive the car since 2006 because I can no longer bend my knees, they are permanently fixed straight.
Dang man, that can't be easy to live with. Ever thought about converting to hand controls?
 
Dang man, that can't be easy to live with. Ever thought about converting to hand controls?
It isn't that bad really. There are some times I miss bending at the knees, but it could be worse.

Pretty sure it's costly do add hand controls and all but one modern car/truck/van are fine to drive. The one I couldn't drive was a rental and I could have driven it, but they had another vehicle that suited me better. I had to shorten the rod in my Firebird and it only took a few minutes to add about an inch of threads.
 
UPDATE:

I'm at a loss now. I had an "operator error" when I installed the reinforcing plate that caused the push rod under the dash to miss the booster. Amazing I still had some brakes. After I fixed that, my brake pedal is back in the same height as my old manual set up.

Before I poor gas on the whole car and strike a match, I need help. Master cylinder is new from auto parts and is for a power drum car. The booster is off a car from the wrecker 30+ years ago. Pretty sure it was a 68 Coronet wagon or 4 door car. While I had the booster off a few days ago, I found the tag that says '1968-C' and under that read C-4212-D.

I measured the rod that attaches to the pedal and it looks like 2-1/2" center to center. Looks like if it were 1/2" smaller it may work.

Any ideas, pictures etc would be appreciated. I want to drive this thing again.
 
Adjustable push rod. Thought I had it tough with 2 knees replaced!
 
Adjustable push rod. Thought I had it tough with 2 knees replaced!
Had a knee replacement in 2005 (I was 40). It was great until my body didn't like it. Like I said, it could be worse. I was in a wheelchair for a while. I can do everything now except for riding a bike or driving a manual car.
 
Post a picture of your booster, There was a 69 Coronet wagon at Valley Auto Wreckers in Turlock that had Drum brakes & a Disc type booster... Don't know if wagons always got the good Bendix booster but Drum cars typically got the Midland Ross booster....

Midland Ross

102_6191.jpg


Bendix

booster3.jpg
 
UPDATE:

I'm at a loss now. I had an "operator error" when I installed the reinforcing plate that caused the push rod under the dash to miss the booster. Amazing I still had some brakes. After I fixed that, my brake pedal is back in the same height as my old manual set up.

Before I poor gas on the whole car and strike a match, I need help. Master cylinder is new from auto parts and is for a power drum car. The booster is off a car from the wrecker 30+ years ago. Pretty sure it was a 68 Coronet wagon or 4 door car. While I had the booster off a few days ago, I found the tag that says '1968-C' and under that read C-4212-D.

I measured the rod that attaches to the pedal and it looks like 2-1/2" center to center. Looks like if it were 1/2" smaller it may work.

Any ideas, pictures etc would be appreciated. I want to drive this thing again.
And that's the other thing.. Could the booster be a C body unit? The pushrods are different & shouldn't just pop out...
 
Post a picture of your booster, There was a 69 Coronet wagon at Valley Auto Wreckers in Turlock that had Drum brakes & a Disc type booster... Don't know if wagons always got the good Bendix booster but Drum cars typically got the Midland Ross booster....

Midland Ross

View attachment 1460947

Bendix

View attachment 1460948

Mine is a Midland for sure.

I'm 99% sure I got the car at one of the wrecking yards on Child Ave in Merced 30 years ago from a 68 Coronet. Don't know if it was a 2 or 4 door or even a wagon, but pretty sure it was a Coronet. Back then I wouldn't have known that other years would fit. Now, looking at my linkage I must have got the linkage later from another car because the I must have had to ground down the booster push rod so it could fit between the levers on the firewall.
 
Been through the yards out on Childs many times... In the 80's, 90's & early 2000's one of my biggest past times was yard searches... Got a lot of good stuff for not a lot of $$$ Wish I'd gotten more & parted with less...
 
Doesn't get much better than that as far as answering a question with useful information, pictures and measurements.
Hikin Mike, if needed, I have a 68 four door, small block, parts car that I have not yet started tearing into, and the power brakes should be all original and probably not needed for my car. PM me if you think there is something mismatched with your setup and we can see if the parts you need are here.
 
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