1969 Charger AC question

[Armycopter]

I recently acquired my Charger. It has factory AC but it’s not hooked up or working. I am totally unfamiliar with AC systems so I was hoping I could get some assistance putting together a game plan to get the system working.

Here is what I know
1. There is a compressor currently installed in the car. Nothing is hooked to it and I have no idea how old it is or whether its been rebuilt.
2. The condenser is not in the car but I have it. Seems to be in decent shape.
3. The previous owner rebuilt the heater box and installed new evaporator and heater core.
4. The receiver/drier or whatever it is called is installed in the car with a steel tube running to the location of where the condenser should be installed.
5. I do have some hoses that came with the car and look to be part of the AC system.

I will upload a pic but not sure how much you can see.

Thanks for any advice.
Mark

 

[Demonic]

Hopefully the dryer is sealed, but if it isn't, you might as well get another one. It will pull moisture out of the ambient air and be useless. They contain a desiccant- silica with a binder, and a felt filter on the outlet. AC systems must be dry and leak free. I would reverse-flush the condenser with a good solvent and then blow it out with nitrogen. A good hydraulic hose shop should be able to remake barrier-grade hoses from yours if yours are original and the correct length for a big block. You'll need all new orings for the connections. Be careful with aluminum threads at the condenser, use a light mineral oil and do not over-tighten.

Rebuild or sent out you heater control valve before the seal leaks. You'll find the carpet wet on the passenger floor. The seal is about $10.- from NAPA.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6601000

 

[Armycopter]

Thank you! Is the heater control valve on the engine side firewall? Does it come out easily?

 

[Demonic]

Is the heater control valve on the engine side firewall? Does it come out easily?

Yes. No. It's the triangular- ish plate with the three special screws - (don't lose the screws, they're hard to find) holding it on. Heater core extension tubes are to the left, voltage regulator to the right as you're facing the firewall. After the hoses are off, and the screws are out, the temperature cable must be disconnected. There's a cable retainer that's different from all the others, and the clip and small screw that holds the housing. I use a stubby Phillips - hard to full it out very far. Then there's the capillary tube - it runs to the bottom of the box in a small oval plate. Remove the plate and fish out the capillary tube as you remove the valve. An assistant helps here if you've never done it.

 

[Armycopter]

Thank you, what do you recommend with the compressor? Use it, have it rebuilt, or buy a new one? It “looks” nice but I have no idea if it works or even if it is original.

 

[Demonic]

As with the rest of the system, being open to the elements is bad for it. Rust particles begin on the metal surfaces, then break loose and eventually clog the thermostatic expansion valve. (TXV) The only usual leak is the shaft seal, which is the carbon ring type, and which is still available. Check the oil per the service manual procedure by removing the small 1/8" pipe plug and fab'ing a dip stick.

If you plan to convert to 134a refrigerant, the "underhood" conversion kits that use the Sanden compressor do a bit better. But from a pure AC performance point of view, R12 is best, although difficult to find and expensive when you can.

 

[Demonic]

Valve rebuild service, one of a few...

https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/25-4636-heater-valve?gfid=p118093-c140513

 

[Kilrbee]

Just an FYI Glen Ray radiators can handle all your A/C rebuild requirements for your car..it might be worth a one stop phone call...