• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

1969 Sure Grip Rear End

69/70Plymies

Well-Known Member
Local time
6:09 AM
Joined
Feb 8, 2016
Messages
80
Reaction score
24
Location
Central USA
In a 1969 Satellite, is it correct for a 742 Sure Grip or would it have been an 489?

Thank you,

Mrs. 69/70Plymies
 
And there is absolutely nothing bad at all with a 742 if that's what you have.
 
In a 1969 Satellite, is it correct for a 742 Sure Grip or would it have been an 489?

Thank you,

Mrs. 69/70Plymies
ANd depending on the engine and options (or lack of) it might be an open and not a SG.
 
My husband was looking to change out his 81/4 rear end for a SG. He didn't know which one would be correct for the car.
The build sheet will tell what was correct for it....if one is still with the car.
 
My husband was looking to change out his 81/4 rear end for a SG. He didn't know which one would be correct for the car.
Does he have a 8 1/4 or 8 3/4 Both rear ends but completely different in design.
 
What engine does you car have? What is the SPD on the tag or sheet?

1969 BB cars came with a 489.

I have a 69 318 coronet 8.75. It. Is a 741 housing. SPD is 916

a 489 is the last one I will buy if I’m shopping for one. They are Ok and I will use one that works fine, but they are not the best one.
 
Last edited:
I'll take a 742 clutch over a 489 cone any day of the week. Nothing wrong with a 741 either..
1969 came with a 489.

742 is the best.

a 489 is the last one I will buy if I’m shopping for one. They are Ok and I will use one that works fine, but they are not the best one.
In the 80's and 90's I would sell all the clutch units because I could get twice the money for them and kept the cone units for myself. Same with the 41's because everyone thought they were junk. I know how to fix a slipping cone unit pretty easily and never blew up a 41 3rd member and I tried lol. In fact, I had more trouble with the clutch units than I ever did with the cone type. It was harder to get a clutch unit that was a bit on the tight side to quit chattering than it was a tight cone unit.....
 
Does he have a 8 1/4 or 8 3/4 Both rear ends but completely different in design.
It is an 8 1/4, 318 engine. He is deciding whether to put a 383 the car or keep the 318 and put 340 heads and intake on.
 
He is building a hotrod so buy whatever third member is good or a good deal.

Go BB every day In a B-body. Sell all the 340 stuff to the guys who have to have it.
 
In a clutch type the plates go in a certain order. See the Service manual. If you don’t do that they are too tight Amd. Pop amd chatter. I thought I could let it wear in. LOL it broken the spider gears. Learned this the hard way.

When done right the clutch type has worked just fine for me.
 
It is an 8 1/4, 318 engine. He is deciding whether to put a 383 the car or keep the 318 and put 340 heads and intake on.
There are sure grip options for the 8 1/4. but your original question is mute as you have an 8 1/4 not 8 3/4. QUOTE[[[[[In a 1969 Satellite, is it correct for a 742 Sure Grip or would it have been an 489?]]]]]
 
Have a 489 in my garage and was given to me. When I get ready to rebuild it will as if there is a way to set the cones up right before I put it in. Or how to check for the right clearance on it. Right off I see it will need a new ring gear a pinion set. As well the drive shaft will need to modify for the bigger U joint. Good reading here.
 
Now, I have another question. Will the U-joint on the drive shaft that was for his 8 1/4 rear end bolt into the yoke of the 742 rear end? Also, will the drive shaft be the correct length? Keep in mind, presently 318 with 904 transmission going into an 8 1/4.
 
Now, I have another question. Will the U-joint on the drive shaft that was for his 8 1/4 rear end bolt into the yoke of the 742 rear end? Also, will the drive shaft be the correct length? Keep in mind, presently 318 with 904 transmission going into an 8 1/4.

If he wants a 8-3/4 SG, he will need to get the housing (b body width) and center section. There are c body axles that are not tapered that can be shortened and the housing can be shortened to the right size if you can't find the b body size in good shape.

I do everything myself, except setting up ring/pinions... tools exist to make it pretty mundane, but if you're only going to do it once - probably best to farm that out if you need to switch gear ratios.

The yokes come in two different sizes, one larger than the other (7290 and 7260). You can measure the distance edge to edge to figure out which one you have. You can also swap them out to match. They also have conversion joints, that mate small to large. Depends on what he is comfortable with. . The driveshaft might need to be a different length, something to check when the new rear is in the car.

If it were me, new driveshaft, good used large slip yoke, good large used or new rear end yoke, and new matching ujoints. Do it once and be done.
 
In a clutch type the plates go in a certain order. See the Service manual. If you don’t do that they are too tight Amd. Pop amd chatter. I thought I could let it wear in. LOL it broken the spider gears. Learned this the hard way.

When done right the clutch type has worked just fine for me.
There's been times when I got new plates etc and they were not the same thickness as factory replacement parts. When I had factory replacement parts, everything went fine.

Don't tell everyone the price will go up. Lol
After all these years I would think everyone (or most everyone) knows.....
 
Going from an 8 1/4 to an 8 3/4 usually requires the driveshaft to be shortened.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top