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1970 B Body Brake Discussion (Sport Satellite)

Moparfiend

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1970 Sport Satellite with small block. Currently has front disc’s (large single cylinder caliper) and rear drums. The tag indicates 4-way drums so I believe the car has been upgraded. Original MC was a single reservoir. Thats all I know about this brake system history. The MC was upgraded to a duel MC see pic as well as a fresh booster.

So I know I need to replace the old cracking lines (all 4). Any recommendations for sourcing lines or should I just get them from AutoZone where I can return them if they don’t fit since this is not a stock set up?

I have more questions but this is a simple start for this thread.

3E768492-29C2-464E-9968-BF0DD633EC5F.jpeg
 
The original master cylinder was NOT a single reservoir. Those were not put in any Mopar after 1966. Dual circuit master cylinders were federally mandated for the 1967 model year.
Check with either Inline Tube or Fine Lines for steel brake lines.
 
Yup my bad its been a long time since I saw that original MC. Here are some pictures that should show how I got it.

MC.jpg IMG_2374.jpg
 
Inline Tube should have everything you need. I would be surprised if Auto Zone had the correct parts for that car. Maybe if your brother worked there and would let you dink around on the computer system you might find them but the average guy behind the counter at my local Auto Zone wouldn't know how to find the correct battery for a 1970 B body car.
 
Can anyone identify that caliper? I don’t know what spindles ate on either.
 
I bought all of my brake hoses from NAPA. They had to order them (a day or two) and they were correct.
 
Kelsey Hayes single pot

Thanks Kiwi! Wassn’t Kelsey Hayes the factory supplier in 1970? Does this tell us anything about the spindles? I am wondering if this was a dealer installed option???????
 
You can get all your brake lines from Cass at Dr Diff too. He can mix and match depending on what you have in your car.
 
1970 Sport Satellite with small block. Currently has front disc’s (large single cylinder caliper) and rear drums. The tag indicates 4-way drums so I believe the car has been upgraded. Original MC was a single reservoir. Thats all I know about this brake system history. The MC was upgraded to a duel MC see pic as well as a fresh booster.

So I know I need to replace the old cracking lines (all 4). Any recommendations for sourcing lines or should I just get them from AutoZone where I can return them if they don’t fit since this is not a stock set up?

I have more questions but this is a simple start for this thread.

View attachment 726741


I order as much as I can from Autozone. You can create an account, save your car specs so it defaults to parts only for your specified car, create a shopping cart, and get a 20% discount and free delivery to your door on orders above $120. You also get a $20 rewards card after so many $ in purchases. The only thing I go to the brick and mortars for is oil and antifreeze.

I ordered my steel lines from inline tube. They fit so well, they almost installed themselves.
 
My '70 GTX had K/H single pot just like those ones. :)
Do you just recognize the casting or are there numbers and letters indicating the mfg?
 
Send photos and info to Dr Diff.
Good prices, great support, minimal hassles and headaches.
My personal experience with InLine tube was not pleasant.
 
If you need the 3 flexible hoses, then your local parts store is fine. Your car apparently had power drum originally. Your new brake booster is aftermarket.
If the swap was done a long time ago, you either have the factory spindles/bearings/2-piece rotors from a 70 b-body OR you might have 1-piece rotors/A-body spindles and 73'ish bearings & rotors. Somebody here can tell you how to tell the difference. Either way, the 70 power disc flexible hoses will fit. The one rear flexible hose is the same regardless I believe (70 b-body)
 
Yes, you can tell by casting #. DO Not turn in that 80012 if you go for replacements. Eat the $5 to 10 core charge. That is most likely the early 70 only casting # and worth more to the 70 Cuda or B body guy doing an OEM restoration. Later castings are 86116 and they are left right specific based on where bleed screw placed. I have a pair of new ones if you need them. You can message me.
 
Yes, you can tell by casting #. DO Not turn in that 80012 if you go for replacements. Eat the $5 to 10 core charge. That is most likely the early 70 only casting # and worth more to the 70 Cuda or B body guy doing an OEM restoration. Later castings are 86116 and they are left right specific based on where bleed screw placed. I have a pair of new ones if you need them. You can message me.
The calipers work so far fortunately so I don’t need to rebuild. But thanks for the heads up on the value position. I wonder how much they would fetch.
 
That original Booster is a correct Bendix for power disc. You can get an after market look alike for the Bendix MC that would be on it. The MC was the manual drum. I would go back to that original Bendix with a dual Disc MC meant for the 70 B body. You would look much more OEM. I imagine you have an original set up from the calipers. So the stock hoses should work, just depends what they did with distribution block, proportion and metering valves. The 70 SVM will show you the correct set up for disc.
 
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