1970 Charger Power Window Issue: Pass Front

bad88ttop

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Hi guys, I'm in the final stages of my 1970 Charger R/T restoration and I'm experiencing an issue with the front Pass window working. I've jumped the window using a batter box and the motor works fine. All 3 of the other windows work as expected except the front passenger. I have power to the center pin of the 5 eyelet switch connector but nothing when pushing the switch. I tried another rear switch and same thing, but both switches work fine on the rear windows. That eliminates the switch being the issue.
I have power into the window motor harness but no ground. If I add a ground, to the harness thru the 2 wire plug (to the motor), it works. I know it's something silly but I'm not the best at wiring so I figured I'd ask. There's only 1 ground on the power window harness and the other 3 windows are working fine, so I'm baffled. I'm open to suggestions on what to try, I really appreciate any feedback. Possibly someone has a schematic of this circuit and they'd be willing to help me with what and where to test w/ the test light. Thanks in advance.

-Thanks Bill
 

5wndwcpe

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The passenger side switch receives it's ground from the master switch, so I'd check there to start.
 

Jerry Hall

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The master switch on the driver's door can cause a multitude of problems. Does that window work from the master switch? There is a member on the forum that will rebuild any defective switches you have.
 

451Mopar

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could be a bad switch connection at the master, drivers switch, or some disconnect in the harness.
easy solution is just use two spdp relays to operate the motor.
 

bad88ttop

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The master switch on the driver's door can cause a multitude of problems. Does that window work from the master switch? There is a member on the forum that will rebuild any defective switches you have.
No. It does not work from the master switch either. I’ll have to try another master switch and we’ll see what happens. Stay tuned.
 

YY1

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Sounds like the ground from the master to the PS motor might be bad, if it's indeed wired that way.
 

Rockland71GTX

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Screenshot_20211116-095323.png


It's not too clear here, but I believe that both legs at the motor should show ground until the switch is moved to the up or down position. The ground is provided through the master switch and then feeds through the remote switches. Check for ground at the motor on both legs and trace back to the master switch until you find the break.
 

Rockland71GTX

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On the master switch diagram the 'right rear' shows the ground to the bottom left and upper right of the 5 pins on the switch. All the other switches are wired the same. Check the plug at the door with the switch installed and you should have a ground at all 4 corners and 12 volts at the center.
 

5wndwcpe

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And be careful when prying the wiring harness off of the back of the switches. The contacts can be brittle DAMHIK.
 

451Mopar

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could be a bad switch connection at the master, drivers switch, or some disconnect in the harness.
easy solution is just use two spdp relays to operate the motor.
The relay solution only uses the power side of the switches. the grounding is done at each window/relay location. I used it on my car with a master switch with a broken ground
 

bad88ttop

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OK So I pulled a master switch from one of my other 70 CHargers and the window still didn't work. That eliminates the switches anyhow. With that being said, where's a good starting point with this. I'm not the best electronic diagnostic person, but I can use a test light. lol
If anyone can walk me thru my testing procedure I'd be forever grateful. Thanks, Bill
 

Jerry Hall

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@devinism may be able to help you. He was a great help to me and rebuilt all my window switches, and some other switches lately.
 

devinism

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On the master switch diagram the 'right rear' shows the ground to the bottom left and upper right of the 5 pins on the switch. All the other switches are wired the same. Check the plug at the door with the switch installed and you should have a ground at all 4 corners and 12 volts at the center.

This is correct. On your RF connector you should have a ground signal at all 4 corners.
With your test light connect one lead to a 12v positive source, and on the switch plug you SHOULD see a ground at the 4 cornel terminals. Your master switch needs to be plugged in for the circuit to be complete. IF no ground then check for continuity between each of those 4 corners to the back of the master switch plug, on the corresponding switch (1 of the 4 buttons). If it appears there are any splices somewhere in the wiring don't assume they were done correctly, and don't assume colors will match.
Are all the PW components original to the car?
 

bad88ttop

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This is correct. On your RF connector you should have a ground signal at all 4 corners.
With your test light connect one lead to a 12v positive source, and on the switch plug you SHOULD see a ground at the 4 cornel terminals. Your master switch needs to be plugged in for the circuit to be complete. IF no ground then check for continuity between each of those 4 corners to the back of the master switch plug, on the corresponding switch (1 of the 4 buttons). If it appears there are any splices somewhere in the wiring don't assume they were done correctly, and don't assume colors will match.
Are all the PW components original to the car?

This is great information, thank you so much. Yes, The wiring harness and regulators are original to the car (1970 Charger). The window motors are new from Rock Auto and all work well using a booster pack directly to the motor. All of the other windows are working as expected except Pass side front. I purchased reproduction window switches from OER (which I have done with a few of my other cars) and they seem to work fine. I did switch it out with one of my other cars (that works) without any success. I'll do some testing once I get this car back on the ground and I'll circle back with you. It's guys like you that make this hobby so enjoyable. Thanks again. Bill W
 

bad88ttop

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Special thanks to everyone that responded. The issue was 2 wires crossed on the switch. I used the Manuel’s wiring schematic and had to look twice at first. Thanks everyone. This board is great in more ways then one.
 

bad88ttop

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Here’s some pics for all those interested. All numbers 70 RT. E87, D21, M99 power sunroof with power windows, radio delete and Canadian Export. Turned out great.

E67FA8CE-79C6-452D-906B-E2AE37BB770C.jpeg 651D2805-A3C5-4EC1-8FBC-0FD0A69F748D.jpeg C885B969-C45A-4CB5-828F-6037B7A31A6A.jpeg E1F720E8-5BA6-4066-BDB9-2BAB71ABD892.jpeg 3A9335E9-8FEE-4ACB-A8F1-0D5DDE9B2987.jpeg
 

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