1970 key buzzer - where to get one?

[davek]

does anyone reproduce the key buzzer

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MOPAR-...=item4b5d727b9d:g:ONMAAOSwkJNble1R:rk:11:pf:0

 

[davek]

Just not wanting to get ripped off,buy it and it not working then pay to send it back then wait for my money.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Likely won’t find a repo, NOS is your best bet to have it work. There are several other ’70 NOS buzzers currently listed but they must be made of gold.

 

[davek]

Likely won’t find a repo, NOS is your best bet to have it work. There are several other ’70 NOS buzzers currently listed but they must be made of gold.

Stupid gold I say

 

[PurpleBeeper]

does anyone reproduce the key buzzer

Hey Davek, all I've seen is the used "NOS" stuff and did not find a reproduction. They do seem to be expensive. If there's an electronics guy on this board (likely) maybe he can tell us how to make our own? (for the non-numbers-matching guys that just want to hear a buzz)

 

[HT413]

I’ve been disabling those things since the 80’s. And here we are putting them back in. Funny how things change.

 

[JimCoronette]

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/whats-this-part.168267/

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I’ve been disabling those things since the 80’s. And here we are putting them back in. Funny how things change.

Back in the 80s these cars were just old cars and weren't being restored but modified and abused, rated on US$500 to 2K... now they are classic cars what are being restored and usually not abused... although some still being modified, and rated on US$30K-50K restored.

hence the reason why this piece ould worth nothing back in the 80s ( even trashed ) and now up to $150.

I have one NOS BTW, 2983696... the diff is the bracket being folded on the oposite way. Inners should be the same just housing changes due the bracket shape. If you have your old one is just about swap inners. But I'm overseas

 

[Dragon Slayer]

Be careful. Look closely at wiring diagram in SVM. 69 buzzer different then 70, and the wire internally to drive coil is fragile. Many do not work, or have wrong part in box at shows. I finally found one at Carlisle and wired it in. Burned out and I had to open it and do a repair on the coil wire. The problem I see is that it buzzes any time door is open with key in, even if ignition is on and car running. I thought it should not buzz if ignition on, only when off and door open? If that is how it worked originally, no wonder everyone unplugged it.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

It works with door, no matter if engine is running or not. Remember you turn of the engine with key in place and you still can close the door with key and engine off or even on. So you get the reminder then.

( Don't ask how I know it LOL )

There is no way to tell the buzzer to stop while engine is runing. The only way could be if you get an AC Delco alt which sends a signal to turn off the ALT light. If so, the buzzer could even work to warning if the alt is not working aside also the key in buzzer ;)


Aside how 69s and 70s works... Can't tell with 69s, but on 70 they are switched on and off by positive, while in 71 was changed to work by negative. This change made the buzzer function get less prongs. And even was integrated to the horn relay to share same positive source.

I can't think on 69s being diff than 70s

 

[Dragon Slayer]

I hear you, except.... The Relay is grounded to frame. Two power sources come in. One is battery always available. So when door opens and grounds coil it buzzes. The other source of power in is Ignition switch? Why? When ignition switch is on the "OTHER" wire wrap on coil is energized through frame ground and prevents coil buzz if door opens. At least that is how I think it should work, otherwise ignition power not needed since battery power is always on. I have opened several of these, and there are 2 individual coil wraps. I think one when ignition is on prevents the other coil from vibrating the buzzer.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I got you. Key in buzzer on these are not just the key in but also lights on buzzer. I have looked at the 70s diagram and I can't think on the RUN circuit source deal

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1970/70DartB.JPG

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Ok I'm just detailing better the diagram

Red... input from key in sensor driving positive from parking light circuit ( constant batt feed )
yellow traced is door ground
blue traced is the RUN circuit. so... what's the function for it ? Can't tell. Maybe to make work or not the system while RUN circuit is activated. Would need to open the pice I have in hands to analize it, but it's a NOS piece I'm selling what I won't open.

since it gets a door ground, I can think on chassis ground to work allong with the RUN circuit, just to turn on or off the buzzer system, no matter the key ir lights status.

I'm toward on think the buzzer is desactivated when you put the key in RUN, so this signal is required to make that.

I can try feeding the one I have.

Diode integrates the parking light system to the warning buzzer to not use an extra buzzer for it but filters this signal when you insert the key is to not turn on the parking lights when you just insert the key, since this key in signal is positive too.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

taken from the 70 Dart diagram one thing is sure, these are the poles to source on these prongs, so making this it won't burnt! diff stuff is when it work and when not.

allong with chassis ground off course!!!!



Looking at this ( once again ) and keeping it chassis grounded this I think it could happen

red activated, yellow traced activated, blue traced deactivated--- buzzer
( key in, door open, ign OFF )
red activated, yellow traced deactivated, blue traced deactivated--- no buzzer
(key in, door closed, ign OFF )
red activated, yellow traced activated, blue traced activated--- no buzzer
(key in, door open, ign in RUN or even cranking )

any RED deactivation no matter the status of the rest, won't make buzz the buzzer.

RED can be also Parking light signal if Diode is conected!

 

[Dragon Slayer]

Right, but mine does not work that way, nor does yours from what you said. Key in and on (car running) and door open, mine still buzzes. So either the Key on blue is open coil or it doesn't matter.

Now here is a real funny one. I built the diode harness. If you look at SVM for Plymouth, the A and E body have diode correct, but for some reason the B body diagram has diode drawn in backwards. Your Dodge shows diode backwards. Anyway I installed the diode, started car, had lights on opened door and turned key off to pull out and the car kept running. Some how it was feeding back to ignition and kept the car running. I turned off the lights and the car stopped running. Pulled out diode and the key in buzzer resumed normal operation, except it does buzz with door open even if ignition is on. So I do not know if one design relay was for Key in only and another was when you had both options. Or I have a cross connect on the harness some where. Not sure how the relay can effect it, since the only thing the Light on diode does is provide another source of power to Terminal 1 Red when the lights are on, but the key is out.

 

[coronet68mx]

I never like the sound of those things

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I never like the sound of those things

I love to keep working everything... buzzers and all!!


@Dragon Slayer

I just told my friend working on his 70 Dart right now hoy to wire it, just as I described on the previous reply and works like I told. He sent me a vid and I uploaded to youtube. You can even heard the relay clicking to deactivate the buzzer when feeding the RUN circuit on one of the tests. He is speaking of course in Spanish but you can see and understand the test anyway.

Chasis ground and Door jam ground are jumped together, he didn't test deactivating the door ground but I don't think is necesary to find out the other functions.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

PN on this unit is 2983693. Is still the factory one. Never replaced

 

[khryslerkid]

I never like the sound of those things