1970 Super bee A833 transmission install help

[Justin Smith]

Hey yall, I am new to the forum, glad to be here!

I need some help/advice. I am currently trying to reinstall my A833 transmission back into the car and I am having a heck of a time trying to get it to go into place. It seems like everytime I get it close, the throw out bearing ends up unclipping from one of the arms on the fork. the clutch, and pressure plate is all lined up, just having a hard time keeping the throw out bearing on the fork to even finish installing the transmission. it seems like just the slightest movement, itll come off the fork. is my clutch fork wore out? any advice, tips in doing this job?

thank you

 

[moparedtn]

from the foothills of NE Tennessee!

Not nearly enough information here. Pics might help, too.

 

[dadsbee]

Bearing onto input shaft, install transmission and then install the fork.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Clips bent, the slightest bump shouldn't knockum off.

 

[mrhemi]

What Dadsbee said.

 

[tonysrt]

To assist installation I use B block head bolts after cutting the head off and screw into bell housing. Once on the head bolts trans goes in level and doesn't knock off throw out bearing. Use at least 2 bolts and when tranny is in you can bolt up and remove head bolts.

 

[Justin Smith]

Thanks for the responses! One thing I did forget to mention is the car has a Lakewood scattersheild bell housing (came with car). It is pretty much closed off to where I can't really see if the T.O. stays on the fork. Once I have got the transmission close, I'd check the T.O. bearing to make sure it was still connected because I can't see it anywhere else, even from the fork access hole its a pain because of obstacles. Ill try to get pictures of what I'm dealing with. It is a brand new T.O. that came with my Mcloud clutch. A couple times the T.O. was still attached but transmission just didn't want to go. I reckon I just need to keep massaging it till it slides the rest of the way in.

 

[dadsbee]

No excuses now.. LOL and I did this part of my restoration when I had my left arm in a sling. Takes some tinkering, but you can do it!

 

[Justin Smith]

The only downfall is my engine is in the car hahaha my header is in the way and I can't remove the header with bellhousing and all because its a 426 hemi. Everything is tighter than a Nats *** hahahaha

 

[Justin Smith]

I am going to get some longer bolts and cut head off of them to use as alignment pins.

 

[4mulas]

Bearing onto input shaft, install transmission and then install the fork.

Dads bee is right, but I don’t know why but this way often doesn’t work for me either. I usually find success to have the bearing clipped onto the fork which is clipped to the bell then I slide the trans through it..

Ps dadsbee, love them blue DC valve covers!

 

[dadsbee]

I've done them both ways over the years (40+ of them). A LOT easier with fork in place if you have a stock bellhousing where you can reach in through the lower access to hold or fix the fork hook up. Only way I've ever had luck with a Lakewood inplace is to install the fork after the fact.

 

[Justin Smith]

I've done them both ways over the years (40+ of them). A LOT easier with fork in place if you have a stock bellhousing where you can reach in through the lower access to hold or fix the fork hook up. Only way I've ever had luck with a Lakewood inplace is to install the fork after the fact.

Have you tried installing the Fork in a Lakewood bellhousing while it is in the car after transmission is installed? I am willing to give it a try

 

[dadsbee]

Have you tried installing the Fork in a Lakewood bellhousing while it is in the car after transmission is installed? I am willing to give it a try

I'm certain I have, more than once as matter of fact when I was a teen (some 40 years ago). Lots of room to do so, at least with stock exhaust... Best I could find for pics showing the clearance available..

 

[Justin Smith]

Those are great pictures! thank you for sharing! I have a set of long tube TTI headers on my Hemi which i think is where my room to work is limited. its pretty tight. I took a couple day break from it to chill some, it got pretty frustrating hahaha! thanks to all y'all I think I have a new plan to attack it again.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

I am going to get some longer bolts and cut head off of them to use as alignment pins.

I would use long bolts rather than head bolts.. grind or saw a slot in the end of the bolts so you can use a screw driver to get them back out.. Keep that trans as level as you can ......................MO

 

[Durandal25]

No excuses now.. LOL and I did this part of my restoration when I had my left arm in a sling. Takes some tinkering, but you can do it!
View attachment 929524 View attachment 929525 View attachment 929526

.....question. Do you bake while working on the car? Love that oven in the last pic, hehe.

 

[Durandal25]

I'm certain I have, more than once as matter of fact when I was a teen (some 40 years ago). Lots of room to do so, at least with stock exhaust... Best I could find for pics showing the clearance available..
View attachment 929656 View attachment 929657 View attachment 929658

Dasbee, I think I saw a water spot under there.......wow, that is the cleanest undercarriage since Sandra Dee sir.

 

[mrhemi]

My Hemi Charger had a Lakewood bell housing when I first got it. I seem to recall not being able to install the clutch fork when it was in the car. Hence the Lakewood went away and I have had a somewhat rare factory scattershield since then. Which allows the clutch fork to be removed and install while it is in the car. Factory piece has a removable inspection cover as the original but it is 1/2" thick cast nodular iron.

 

[Fran Blacker]

.....question. Do you bake while working on the car? Love that oven in the last pic, hehe.

Saved my old oven great for curing paint. Painted a pair of wheels after they dried. heated oven to 250*. Put one in waited 20 mins turned oven off. Came n2xt removed wheel then did second one. Paint was like in was on for years.