1970 super bee b-body suspension question

terminationephx

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I am in the process of deciding on what I am going to do with my front drum brakes and stock suspension.

Can you tell me what type of performance I can expect by replacing the upper, lower control arms with all new hardware vs replacing the entire k member? How much of a difference in handling performance is there between just doing shockscontrol arms and the related hardware vs the replacing all that along with the entire k-member?

My goal is to make the car a solid driver that is safe and suitible for almost every day use.
 
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super-bee_ski

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Hi,
This topic has been going around on the Forum for many years now.
I personally have been "corrected" and "scolded" by a few knowlegable and savy, experienced builders in the past.

My opinion was, the "B-body" is like a Dump truck.
It was NOT made to handle.

That being the case, I powdercoated the original uppers and lowers on my 1970 Superbee.
Big Hemi engine and by big, I mean it weighs a lot. (Aluminum heads, manifold)

I added the MP power disc brake kit.

BUT: Some individuals here enlightened me and proved that the B-body can be made to handle well, all be it with some Xtra money.

You know what? after researching this avenue, they are correct.

1. Hotchkiss is a good example.
2. Tubular is another.
3. QA1

So, look them up AND research on this forum.
 

terminationephx

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Thanks for the info. I will look at the companies yoy referenced. Do you think you can improve handling by just changing the upper, lower and front end rubber and bushings?
 

PST

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The Key is that you already have a goal:

"My goal is to make the car a solid driver that is safe and suitible for almost every day use."

That being the case I would recommend rebuilding your stock front end, just replacing your dried out and worn bushings will make a great improvement. If you do want to increase handling here are my recommendations:

Rebuild Front End with PolyGraphite Bushing and add to the kit the 11/16" adjusting sleeves and tie rod ends.
Add stiffening plates to the lower control arms
Replace shocks with either Bilsteins or KYB
Add adjustable strut rods
Increase your torsion bar size to a 1.03"

Thanks
James

- - - Updated - - -

As for the brakes we offer a couple options for disc brake conversions starting at $649, I would recommend checking out them on our website.

Thanks
James
 

super-bee_ski

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Thanks for the info. I will look at the companies yoy referenced. Do you think you can improve handling by just changing the upper, lower and front end rubber and bushings?

Yup, I purchased ALL PST suspension components...
BUT: I kept my Upper and Lower A-arms stock.
I'm not going to run my Hemi Superbee at Willow Springs Raceway!

Just drive it and cruise.
 

Lowhound

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I used mostly Pst stuff however I sent my 1.03 torsion bars back to them & replaced them with their .096 bars. Used their lower control arm stiffening plates & their polygraphite suspension kit. Frame connectors from U.S. Car Tool, new steering box from Autozone only $99, fast ratio pitman arm, fully welded & gusseted my K member, KYB shocks. You may want to add a rear sway bar also 7 new rear leafs. You probably don't need all this to be happy though. Just add a few parts as you go till you are happy (test & tune). Personally Im choosing to go with the factory strut rods. Im not so sure there are a lot of advantages to running adjustable ones.
 

super-bee_ski

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I used mostly Pst stuff however I sent my 1.03 torsion bars back to them & replaced them with their .096 bars. Used their lower control arm stiffening plates & their polygraphite suspension kit. Frame connectors from U.S. Car Tool, new steering box from Autozone only $99, fast ratio pitman arm, fully welded & gusseted my K member, KYB shocks. You may want to add a rear sway bar also 7 new rear leafs. You probably don't need all this to be happy though. Just add a few parts as you go till you are happy (test & tune). Personally Im choosing to go with the factory strut rods. Im not so sure there are a lot of advantages to running adjustable ones.

Lowhound...funny thing...
I did not use the PST bar either...
In fact it's in my garage on a shelf.
Too BIG and you need aftermarket adapters to install.

Also, I installed Polygraphite/neoprene on the Superbee but "conventional" on the 63' Polara.
I like the ride of conventional better that the hard polygraphite.
 

PST

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Lowhound...funny thing...
I did not use the PST bar either...
In fact it's in my garage on a shelf.
Too BIG and you need aftermarket adapters to install.

Also, I installed Polygraphite/neoprene on the Superbee but "conventional" on the 63' Polara.
I like the ride of conventional better that the hard polygraphite.


You should not need after market adapters to use our torsion bars. Now if you are running our old style 1.03 bars that are clocked flat-flat in some instances the vehicle stance can be slightly lower. In our latest run of bars we have re clocked the bars to a 15 degree off set to compensate for the lowered stance that some customers were experiencing with the flat-flat 1.03. To date we have had no further issues.
Thanks
James
 

209gtx

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You should not need after-market adapters to use our torsion bars. Now if you are running our old style 1.03 bars that are clocked flat-flat in some instances the vehicle stance can be slightly lower. In our latest run of bars we have re-clocked the bars to a 15 degree offset to compensate for the lowered stance that some customers were experiencing with the flat-flat 1.03. To date, we have had no further issues.
Thanks
James
I bought a set from you and they are not marked nor have preload, Your company will not make correct, Stating, it over a year, WTF, WE save our money and build up parts to complete the project, SHam eon PST
 

PST

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I bought a set from you and they are not marked nor have preload, Your company will not make correct, Stating, it over a year, WTF, WE save our money and build up parts to complete the project, SHam eon PST

We work with customers no matter how long ago the purchase was made. This past week I worked with a customer that purchased a disc brake conversion in 2017 and was just getting around to installing it.

I will gladly look into your issue. Please PM your information. I will need your full name, address to where the product was shipped and approximate time of purchase. All the bars that we sell are marked (forge stamping) with an L or an R on the end and our part number regardless of zero clocking (our old version pre 2015) or newer version with 20 degree clocking.

We are here to help but you will need to provide some info.

Thanks
James From
PST
 
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