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1973 Road Runner resto

73runner

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I've been posting some of the repairs associated with the resto of my silver frost 73 road runner on other threads but decided to create a new thread just for this project.

This car has been with me for almost 18 years and was cosmetically restored about 2 years after I got it.... Prior to this car I had bought my dad's 73 SSP that I had cloned into a road runner in high school and through college.

I was 10 years old when my dad brought the brand new silver frost SSP with raised white letter goodyear polyglas gt's and a white interior with console and rally dash home and I fell in love with it.

As I grew up I would spend endless hours making it look great, studying its design and how it worked. When I was 14 he sold it to my cousin and I bought it back from her when I was 16 for $500 but to me it was priceless.

After I got married, it became obvious that my old satellite would need a lot of work to make up for its nine years of faithful service. New engine (318 had almost 200k miles) lots of body work (it was breaking out in rust all over) and lots of repairs from my own follies of youth (cut doors for speakers, lots of bad wiring repairs, cut up dash for a series of radios over the years, three cheap paint jobs, hand painted stripes) were all in my future.

Thats when fate stepped in by way of a neighbor a few blocks away.

Coming home one day I spot this silver frost 73 road runner. Needless to say, I stopped and inquired if it might be for sale. It was just a running shell with no interior except for he seats..but it was a numbers matching 340 that someone must have special ordered. It came with a good 340 (recent valve job and head work) that pulled really well, limited slip diff with 3.55 gears, power windows, a/c, sunroof, 727 that turned out to be pretty fresh. The sunroof was stuck and had a good bit of rust in it and along the roof where the sunroof mounted but the floors and trunk were in good shape. And I had the old SSP for the interior parts and all the little stuff that were missing. 18 years ago, no one made parts for these cars so having the needed parts clinched I for me.

A little haggling with my neighbor and $1500 dollars later I brought it home and went to work.

Car came out great and I enjoyed it for the next 8 years when the engine started smoking and the tranny went belly up. In addition, the car started to develop a moldy smell that I couldn't find the source for until one day I was washing it and saw the the dash was dripping. The cowl had rusted through in a few spots.

So this brings me to the current resto. When I finished it the first time it was mainly a paint and rust repair project. This time it was a more complete tear down and restoration.

I found this forum after completing the body work and engine rebuild. And it has been a great source of information as well as a great place to share some of the useless knowledge that comes with one of these projects.

So here's what's completed to date, today's progress and a list of what's left to do:

Enjoy and feel free to comment, especially if you see something thats not right... You won't offend me..


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My work bench just before we started rebuilding the front end

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Here you can see the k frame installed after new poly mounts. Frame was in excellent shape with minimal rust. I have seen these rusted through at the mounts but that was not the case here. A little wire brush and paint made it like new. Ar you can see the body work was almost done by this time. Most people would have done this part before the bodywork.

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Here's a better view.... Yes, the brake lines are shot too.

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Almost done.... New brake lines and calipers to go.

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Next came the rear end, spring mounts and new gas tank. This is a before view.
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Front end and rear suspension complete. Had to adapt front sway bar bushings for the rear. Still need alignment to finish but will do that when the new tires get put on. Riding on tires that Goodyear stopped making five years ago or more is totally uncool. Good enough to roll on in the shop.

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Heres a view of the rear with window shade.... Totally ghetto shade but still haven't even seen a correct period one. She's sitting very fine on her refurb'd suspension. Still need to installed re-chromed rear bumper and trim. Actually found someone who re-popped the filler for the center on eBay. Tips are old but still in great shape. Today's job was to reinstall the power windows.
 

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Here's a view of the windows installed along with all new weatherstripping for the doors and windows.

It took all day to get the window seals installed.

You have to set the rubber in the inner lip first and then with a dull thin spatula push in the outer lip into the outer edge of the channel.

It took me about two hours to figure out a technique that would consistently yield a good result and found that pushing up with a 1/4 inch dowel that you lay along the seal allowed me to push in the outer lip with the spatula without dislodging the inner channel lip. Once I got the technique down it worked out great.

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Here's the passenger side complete.

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And the driver side complete... Took another couple of hours to adjust the window to seal and align.

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Heres a detail of the passenger side alignment. The tape is there to hold the window fuzzy that I accidentally knocked loose and had to glue back in. But now all the windows go up and down into their tracks and seal correctly. I left them up to start getting the seals to conform to the glass over Mother's Day...

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Engine went in about two months ago.... But I thought you'd all enjoy a view.

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Heres a detail view of the engine. Went all out with the hoses, clamps and correct heater valve.

Now that the windows are in and sealed... The next hole to deal with is this

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I found David Hemenway from Colorado who makes the seals for the sunroof on this forum.

Interior comes next.

Dyna mat the floors, install the radio and speakers, carpet, seats and headliner, outer paint polish and trim, then comes the stripes, tires and maybe the wheels..... Thinking about the 17" cast ralleys.
 
looking good thanks for sharing :headbang:
 
Looks good man! I have my 73 build posted in the projects section, and after a debackle with my first painter, she comes home next week, and finally get to start bolting her back together. Glad to see some else doing another 73. If you are doing interior next, go with Legendary Auto Interiors, you will not regret it, they do excellent job on the upper door panels and seat covers!
 
That's a really cool car 73runner. Love the color and looking forward to you interior and sunroof updates.
 
340, a/c, sunroof, tuff wheel.....NICE!
 
Looks good man! I have my 73 build posted in the projects section, and after a debackle with my first painter, she comes home next week, and finally get to start bolting her back together. Glad to see some else doing another 73. If you are doing interior next, go with Legendary Auto Interiors, you will not regret it, they do excellent job on the upper door panels and seat covers!


Thanks.

I got the upper panels and seat covers from legendary. They are at the trim shop and should be done this week. I'll post the results as soon as I get them back.
 
very nice car! :)

nice work on the suspension too..i soo gotta redo my suspension...
 
You got a great deal on that car! I've been looking for a factory sunroof car for a long, long, time. I passed on a sunroof 73 GTX for $300 back in the 80's and have been kicking myself ever since.
 
In 1995, $1500 bucks was a lot of dough! But in retrospect still cheap. As for the sunroof, I love it and used it often. I adapted a power unit from an f body New Yorker during the first resto in 96/97. I just couldn't find the handle and trim to put it back together at that time. Likewise, I improvised the weatherstrip out of some black welting, felt and vinyl edge trim. All I can is: if you can get one now.... get it. They made a lot of them but very few seem to have survived.

Would love to know the numbers.
 
Nice job with the engine bay...what was your secret to the window alignment and getting them to seal right? Boy I am still trying that one.
 
QUOTE=b_body_hopeful;909895542]Nice job with the engine bay...what was your secret to the window alignment and getting them to seal right? Boy I am still trying that one.[/QUOTE]

No tricks ... Just ugly sweat. But there is a process that I figured out and will gladly share.

Since my car was completely torn down and new hinges installed, any alignment of the windows that I could get from the marks on the doors were now just a starting point.
First step it to reinstall the operators in the door and make sure that they move up and down freely.


Next come the door seals and other rubber bits that can and will effect the alignment of the glass.


Once the seals are in, and I mean all of them.. door seals, window fuzzies or sweeps that mount to the doors and any seal that even touches the window... I started with the front window and soon figured out that you need to set the rear one first.

Obviously, you need to have the windows mounted into the operators (electric or manual doesn't matter) and fully up to the stops. I set the stops to their old position as a start based on the washer marks on the door where they mount. With the rear windows, I found that I needed to guide it up to the seal manually to start but it needs to be fully seated into the seal to check for fore and aft location of the front...so be sure the rear window sits flush and square.

Then, with all the upper adjustment bolts and lower nuts to both windows, set finger tight, you slowly close the door with out setting the latch such that it is a bit ajar to check for the lower rear setting of the rear window where it meets the front and also check that the lower front corner of the front window is going to the engage the seal..

If the lower front corner of the window is not just beginning to bite the sealift needs to move forward. Once that length is set, you can begin to tighten up the rear window for and aft adjustment. With the rear window set, Operate it up and down such that the top edge runs up parallel with the seal.... The rollers are a bit loose on purpose to allow for some drag and rotation of the window to seat... But the more parallel you can get it to go up and down the better.



At this point you are almost ready to close the door and check for the front window. But not yet.


The upper window seats into the hardtop window seal such that, as it closes, it must be able to pop up and into the seal and have the seal engage the top of the window glass. I know I've seen a section illustration of the seal in the open and shut position that makes the above easier to understand. And if I can find it again in the FSM I'll post it. But, the last bit of travel as the door latches must be able to push the top of the glass up into the seal such that it deforms and forces seal to roll over the top of the glass.


We haven't closed the door yet and the only thing set is the rear window for/aft setting. Everything else is just finger tight.


Now you need to make sure that the window is engaging the hard top seal and that is is completely parallel at the top with the seal above at the stops. If it isn't, then adjust the stops and the rear guide up or down 'til it does.


Next set the angle of the glass from the bottom of the door adjuster out so that the top of the front window glass just touches the seals and sits about 1/2" from the fully seated position when the door is at latch strike position but still ajar. It's ok if the rear corner of the window glass looks out of square with the rear window and is touching the front of the rear window seal where it meets the metal reinforcement of that rubber seal. I swear it will all square up in the end. You may need to play with the upper adjusters in and out a little to get it happen but you'll get there. Once your almost there, go ahead and install the inner sweep adjusters (adjustable fuzzies that mount on the inside of the front glass).


The first side is a bitch but, like sex, the first time is the clumsiest. Patience and careful observation of the effects of the adjusters will make it happen for you.


To make the glass pop up and into the seal is the goal. Therefore, the rear of the front glass must touch the rear window front weather strip and the hard top seal at the same time.


If everything is lining up, then snug up but don't tighten the front window adjustment bolts and stops and sweeps and close the door. Adjust as required to get a good fit and seal and then move back to the rear window.


Unless you are lucky, now comes the hard part. I said lucky because the rear of the front window will most probably not be parallel to the front of the rear window.


Now you need to fine tune both window so that the above edges are as close to parallel as you can get

remember: perfection is measured by the glass being able to engage the upper seal and still seat completely on the front of the rear window seal ... so that the gap is about 1/8" to 3/16" between the the stainless reinforcement for the seal at the front of the rear window and the rear vertical edge of the front glass..... as long as they seat and seal correctly when the door is fully closed, it's fine.....


That's about it... Let me know how it works out for you.....



and now for something completely different...............

rear seats and door panels came in from the trim shop today.

Here they are in the back of my little Mopar wagon.

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Hopefully the wife will let me work on it this Saturday"
 
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Worked on cleaning up the wiring for the power windows today and cut out, fabbed and replaced the passenger side rear seat bracket on the floor. Not exciting work but very needed before the interior goes back in..

Dynamat came in today. More prep work to come.
 
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sweetness !!!! say where u buy your rear window luvers from ?
 
Thanks,

I got the louver for the rear window about five years ago on line. For the life of me... I can't remember where. If I remember or find one I'll pm you.... If I find an original... Your on your own!
 
Wow, great write-up. I need to try not all of that but thanks for letting me know how you did it.
 
Just noticed a box by the door.... Must have come in after the dynamat. Kids must have set it aside or mabe the wife did. No matter. It's the seals I ordered from David Hemenway in Colorodo. Look simple enough and he sent along the rear water stop that mounts to the back of the roof panel.

With the window now working I can concentrate on the sunroof. Found a small hole next to the drivers side drain about 1/8" in diameter. Good thing we did a little leak testing. You couldn't see it withou a light from behind.... Or water.

So next Saturday it comes out at a friend's shop. While he does some careful welding, I'll be working the seals and panel. Luckily I've taken the panel out more than a few times so it should be a complete days work for both of us.

Ill be posting some pictures of that as we go... Sorry I forgot to take pictures yesterday.
 
Here's some pictures of what I did over the weekend that you can see.

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This is the seat bracket on the passenger side I cut out and welded back in. The hole on the tunnel is a mystery, any one know what that is for.....?

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Here's the little hole in the drain pan for the sunroof over the driver side. Good thing we water tested before moving on to the seal and closing up the car. The hole is right where the left front drain tube is brazed into the pan.... Now comes the 2 second fix with a 2 hour prep..... The pan has to come out CAREFULLY to do the fix..... No welding near the new paint..... Call me mr **** but I just can't do it.

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Heres a view of the dash... All working....but not yet detailed and my latest new joy stick....

Now I just need to engineer a trigger that goes in instead of up.

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As you can see from the pictures above...I went to the shop after work and added to the pile from what came in while I was out. Some stuff I ship the the shop.... To many boxes at home and my wife gets a little nervous.

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Here are the sunroof seals that David Hemenway in Colorodo sent. They will hopefully go on Friday or Monday.

Thanks Dave!!!! You even sent instructions!


Working on homework with the kids tonight.... Finals next week..... No more fun at the shop....

And I thought I would never have finals again!
 

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