• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

1974 Roadrunner Re-Paint and Some Upgrades

Started narrowing frame rails and sand blasting. Battery tray area is ugly.

image000001.jpeg
image000002.jpeg
image000001.jpeg
image000002.jpeg
image000003.jpeg
image000004.jpeg
 
A list of suspension, brakes, and steering parts ordered and going back on the car

  • Suspension, Brakes, Fuel, Steering
    • Most all suspension pieces are powder coated as annotated with *
    • Auto Metal Direct subframe connectors weld in
    • Bergman 1.14” torsion bars * Bergman
    • ADDCO 1.125” front sway bar * Bergman
    • Kanter/PST LCA support brackets
    • Greasable pivot shafts * Firm Feel
    • Firm Feel Tubular upper control arms with positive castor *
    • Firm Feel aluminum cross member and body mounts
    • Rear RCD Bilstein shocks. Bergman
    • Front KYB Excel shocks
    • ADDCO 0.75” rear sway bar *
    • Borgeson 14:1 power steering gear box and power steering cooler Bergman
    • 11” Wilwood disc brakes *
    • 11” rear drums with balanced drums* and ceramic shoes, all other rear brake parts rebuilt with factory spec new parts
    • SS brake lines and SS hoses with PTFE coating inside Bergman
    • Leeds polished master cylinder and vacuum booster Bergman
    • Stock HD leaf springs
    • Flaming River tilt steering column and black satin Mopar Tuff steering wheel
    • Urethane bushings throughout
    • All other suspension parts (tie rods, LCA struts, pitman arm, idler arm, ball joints, adjusting sleeves, etc..,) have been replaced with factory spec new.
    • New fuel tank and sending unit
    • 3/8” stainless supply line, 1/4” stainless return and vapor lines
    • 14” American Racing TT-II wheels with BFG radial TA’s 215/70/14
 
Last edited:
Did you find any more areas of concern?
Nothing yet other than what I posted so far. Lower rear quarters, battery tray area, small area around rear window, one area on rear floor pan, and the rest is pin holes and minor spots. Nothing that can’t be fixed. My body guy is one hell of a metal worker/welder/fabricator. I wish they made fenders for this car. The fenders are not rusted but full of dimples. Like someone took a ball peen hammer to them. Hood is rough too like that. New fenders and a new hood and there would be almost no filler required.
 
Nothing yet other than what I posted so far. Lower rear quarters, battery tray area, small area around rear window, one area on rear floor pan, and the rest is pin holes and minor spots. Nothing that can’t be fixed. My body guy is one hell of a metal worker/welder/fabricator. I wish they made fenders for this car. The fenders are not rusted but full of dimples. Like someone took a ball peen hammer to them. Hood is rough too like that. New fenders and a new hood and there would be almost no filler required.
Nice, I was thinking it would be worse than that underneath after seeing your initial posts. Your fenders were perplexing, hard to imagine why they got so bad, hopefully a few hours with a couple of hammers and dollies can improve them a lot. Glad to see it being done right
 
Nice, I was thinking it would be worse than that underneath after seeing your initial posts.
The one thing you can get for these cars is floor pans and trunk. I think they were all replaced during the previous resto. One of them was already starting to rust through because it wasn’t sealed properly. They also went crazy with seam sealer. Globbed that **** thick in the trunk and other areas. Took some time to scrap all that out and of course there was rust starting to form already underneath because of improper prep.

Your fenders were perplexing, hard to imagine why they got so bad

I’m thinking an angry ex-wife or girlfriend.
 
Hoping to get back on the car next week. My shop guy and also friend who is doing the heavy lifting is on vacation. We plan on finishing up the metal work and sealing all the small areas where moisture could penetrate by either welds or sealer. Then epoxy coat and two coats of base on the bottom since base sands better than epoxy. Expect to see some more progress next week.
 
Back
Top